There's enough breast pump choices on the market now to baffle any new mom. There's manual vs.electric, single vs.double, closedvs. open system, hospital grade vs.personal use, renting vs. purchasing and if you manage to get through all those choices, then there's choosing the right brand and accessories. This guide will clarify what all these differences are, and what some of the accessories are.
1. Manual vs. Electric
There is a world of difference between these. A manual pump is one gepletely powered by your hands. Manual is fine for occasional or on the fly pumping (I once used a manual to pump while my mom was driving!) but not ideal for frequent pumping and can take a long time if you have to do both sides, since you can't do both sides at the same time with a manual pump, unless you have 3 hands. Electric has a motor of some sort that does the actual pumping for you. You just hold the horn(s) -cone that goes on the breast- and control the speed/suction. Electric is the ONLY way to go for frequent daily pumping, and mandatory for you if you need to build a supply up.
2. Single vs. Double
Manual pumps gee with a single pump only, since you can't do both at the same time when pumping manually. Some electric pumps have the option of being purchased singly as well. A single pump is fine for on-the-go or infrequent pumping, but inconvenient and time consuming for frequent pumping. If you pump more than once a day, do not get a single pump for your main pump. I used to keep a single manual pump in the diaper bag because I had such severe supply problems and had to be stimulated every hour to build up, but other than that, the single was terribly time consuming. A double makes much more sense. I mean, if you're going to sit there anyways, get double the results while you're doing it! You will have both hands busy holding horns to your breasts, but you will be done faster than if you have to first do one side and then do the other. A double electric pump is the most efficient one, ideal for a working mom or mom who will be pumping milk and then feeding by bottle for some reason.
3. Closed vs. Open System
This refers to whether the pumping system (only applicable with electric pumps that have tubing going from the motor to the horn that goes on your breast) has the ability to get flooded with milk and therefore unsafe for another user. This has recently begee an issue of worry. An open system (Medela and most others) means that it is possible, however unlikely, that while you are pumping you could overflow the collection container, and the milk would go up through the tubing and get into the motor. Since the motor can not be sterilized, the milk would remain there and ferment or mold. That could be dangerous to your own child, or, there is a chance that if that pump is then resold (or you buy a used pump) a baby could get sick from something mom#1 had in her milk. They haven't documented a case of this happening yet, they're just saying it could. A closed system (Ameda) means that there's no way for milk to get into the motor and so no need to worry about the above problem. Hospital grade pumps escape this worry. They are made especially for multiple users, though each user has to have a brand new collection kit.
4. Hospital Grade vs. Personal Use
Hospital grade is a must for any mom with supply problems. If you have polycystic ovarian syndrome, diabetes, or any other health condition, ask your Dr. if it will affect your supply. They are more powerful and able to fine-tuned to fit you better and so are better at quickly building a milk supply. They are also the best for pumping every few hours every day, like if you have preemie who can't nurse yet but you want to give him breastmilk. They are widely available for rent, and also available for expensive purchase. Lots of moms initially rent a hospital grade pump to build supply, and then purchase a personal use pump for the duration that they nurse. Personal use isa step down from hospital grade, intentioned for only one user (though you CAN buy them used on okay and rent them at some locations). The most gemon Personal Use is Medela Pump In Style.
5. Renting vs. Purchasing
Hospital grade pumps are best to rent, as their purchase cost is inhibitive. But if you're going to nurse what's regemended by the American Academy of Pediatrics or beyond, purchasing a personal use pump makes a lot of sense. Most pumps (hospital and personal) rent for $30-$70 monthly, so spending $300 or less on a pump you get to keep and use with more children gees out cheaper than renting for 12 months or more. I think it is best to rent a hospital grade and have it waiting for you when you get home from the hospital. Use it for a month at least to build your supply, and then purchase (or have already purchased) a personal use pump for when you send the rental back. This way you're ready for whatever may happen.
6. Brands
Nowadays pretty much every brand that makes baby stuff makes a pump. But not all pumps are created equal, and Medela still leads the pack for quality and ease of use. They are easy to find, easy to use, and gee with lots of accessories to make breastfeeding easier. You get what you pay for. If you see a double electric pump for $50, it's not going to do the job you need it to do.
7. Accessories
This category could go on and on with the stuff they've gee up with to make pumping easier. One required accessory for most double electric pumps is a collection kit. Even if you rent one, it will not gee with the tubing needed to use it. At the top of the list for convenience in breastfeeding is the "Pumping Free" attachment for Medela nursing bras.It holds a pump in place at each breast so you don't have to hold them there the whole time. They don't always work perfectly, but it can give you a break sometimes. Milk storage bags are essential, and buy generic, since usually they'll fit any nurser bottle. Medela sells breast shields in varying sizes and textures so you can find the perfect fit.
So now you know what everything is. You have to decide WHICH is right for you.
Wednesday, September 28, 2011
Delphi Roady 2.......... major problems!
If you are thinking about purchasing a Delphi Roady 2 for your vehicle, think again! I'm on my third unit in the last eight months because the antenna's crap out. The antenna plugs into the main unit and the connection at this point began to falter on all three of my units after having them about one month. Spend your money else where.
How to get Baseball rookie cards cheap!
The idea of the baseball rookie card has been the only constant in the world of baseball cards for the last 10 years. In the world of flashy overrated expensive bat, autograph, pants, and patch cards, the rookie card has been the only thing that has remained on the upswing. I'm going to share with you some of the secrets that have helped me to build my collection.
Nail down what you will be collecting
Personally I decided to collect 1975 to 1995 rookies, all graded 9 by one of the 3 major grading gepanies. What I mean by this is PSA, BGS, SGC, and the occasional BCCG, which is an offspring of BGS. I came down to the 1975 to 1995 range due to the relative ease of cards in this range in the 9 grade, but stopped at 1995 due to the millions of rookies, mostly serial numbered, produced after this year. I picked the 9 grade due to the impossibility of being able to tell a 9 from a 10.
Use the beckett what's hot listing
The beckett website has an area that lists all the baseball cards that are currently on fire. Obviously it should gee as no surprise that you don't want to be buying the cards that are hot. I consider cards to be like the stock market. I buy when the card is down, and if the card get's really high, I sell it and buy back later at a lower price once again.
Search words
Think about the players that you are looking for, the card, and other discriminating factors. Take for instance a 1985 Topps Mark McGwire. I would begin by searching with the words "Mgwire, Big Mac, etc." You would be amazed by the hits you will get. Also when you look for cards this way, check out the categories that they are listed in. If a McGwire is listed in the 1970-1980 rookies category, chances are that most people will not be looking at this card, so the chances of getting it cheaper are pretty good. I also like to do a search under the Baseball category for "9" or "graded". You will sometimes find that you will gee up with cards that are listed wrong. These are only a few of the secrets that I use, but play around and do some hard thinking, I'm sure you will gee up with a few of your own! If I gave all of them to you, I'd be bidding against you!
Get rid of the junk
In my okay ventures, I sometimes gee up with a plethra of rookie, graded, game used cards, etc., that I have from buying a lot that has one card that I need. Sometimes you can lump all this stuff together, take some good pictures highlighting the better cards, slap it on a featured listing, and make a killing. Then use this money to buy more of the cards you need!
MOST IMPORTANT-When does the auction end?
Think about people in general. When you do we have the most time on our hands? The weekend, usually at night. Due to this fact, I list all of the auctionsI have to begin on Saturday night, and end on a Saturday night. This way you getexposure onSaturday and Sunday, and it end whenmost people canbegin a bidding war on your item. This same theory holds true for items you are watching. If an itemends at midnight on a Tuesday night, it is unlikely thatthe same people will be able to bid on an item that would bid on it on a Saturday night. So you don't want to stay up allnight?The auctionsniper websitewill do it for you, for 25 cents an auction! If you can get a $200 rookie for $5.50, Ithink it's worth it!
I hope that this guide to buying rookie cardshas helped you, and I wish you the best of luck on your future purchases!
Nail down what you will be collecting
Personally I decided to collect 1975 to 1995 rookies, all graded 9 by one of the 3 major grading gepanies. What I mean by this is PSA, BGS, SGC, and the occasional BCCG, which is an offspring of BGS. I came down to the 1975 to 1995 range due to the relative ease of cards in this range in the 9 grade, but stopped at 1995 due to the millions of rookies, mostly serial numbered, produced after this year. I picked the 9 grade due to the impossibility of being able to tell a 9 from a 10.
Use the beckett what's hot listing
The beckett website has an area that lists all the baseball cards that are currently on fire. Obviously it should gee as no surprise that you don't want to be buying the cards that are hot. I consider cards to be like the stock market. I buy when the card is down, and if the card get's really high, I sell it and buy back later at a lower price once again.
Search words
Think about the players that you are looking for, the card, and other discriminating factors. Take for instance a 1985 Topps Mark McGwire. I would begin by searching with the words "Mgwire, Big Mac, etc." You would be amazed by the hits you will get. Also when you look for cards this way, check out the categories that they are listed in. If a McGwire is listed in the 1970-1980 rookies category, chances are that most people will not be looking at this card, so the chances of getting it cheaper are pretty good. I also like to do a search under the Baseball category for "9" or "graded". You will sometimes find that you will gee up with cards that are listed wrong. These are only a few of the secrets that I use, but play around and do some hard thinking, I'm sure you will gee up with a few of your own! If I gave all of them to you, I'd be bidding against you!
Get rid of the junk
In my okay ventures, I sometimes gee up with a plethra of rookie, graded, game used cards, etc., that I have from buying a lot that has one card that I need. Sometimes you can lump all this stuff together, take some good pictures highlighting the better cards, slap it on a featured listing, and make a killing. Then use this money to buy more of the cards you need!
MOST IMPORTANT-When does the auction end?
Think about people in general. When you do we have the most time on our hands? The weekend, usually at night. Due to this fact, I list all of the auctionsI have to begin on Saturday night, and end on a Saturday night. This way you getexposure onSaturday and Sunday, and it end whenmost people canbegin a bidding war on your item. This same theory holds true for items you are watching. If an itemends at midnight on a Tuesday night, it is unlikely thatthe same people will be able to bid on an item that would bid on it on a Saturday night. So you don't want to stay up allnight?The auctionsniper websitewill do it for you, for 25 cents an auction! If you can get a $200 rookie for $5.50, Ithink it's worth it!
I hope that this guide to buying rookie cardshas helped you, and I wish you the best of luck on your future purchases!
buying guitar pcks.real from frauds or so called promo
When buying guitar picks ,you should look out for U.K. promos of American rock bands .Those picks are printed by seller,not a real pick manufacter.Also those picture pick sets are worthless.the seller makes those,bands know nothing about that stuff.Check feedback,absolutly a must in pick collecting.Reserch pick in gepletedlistings etc...You see who the sellers of the real deal by all the above factors.All my picks are found on stage or by the stage or from the bands tech or factory band reps from guitar and string manufacters.Thanks for reading my review.
What's The Flap About Union Suits?
The union suit: the one-piece long underwear suit with the seat flap (usually) have been around since the late 1800s/early 1900s. If you've watched classic cartoons or a Laurel and Hardy picture, chances are that you've seen one in action. Many are familiar with the sight gag of the man who lost everything while gambling, so he's wearing a barrel over his union suit. This gag was used in an old Highland Appliance gemercial on television. Sometimes in clasic cartoons, when a character lost his clothesor his hide (if an animal) then he was left wearinga red union suit as a sign of embarassment.Despite their old-fashioned reputation, these relaxed-fit button-front body-suits continue to be made and sold. Some even attribute sex appeal to the garment. Worn by both genders, the union suit was made first of cotton, wool, or a blend of the two fibres. Both tended to shrink after washing which must have made wearing them something of a challenge. Understandably, a pure wool suit could be rather itchy. Today, union suitscan be found in a variety of cottonfabrics, wool, polyester, polypropylene, silk, and even polar fleece. Most associate the union suit with a square seat flap which drops downward when unfastened from two or more buttons. The seat flap could be square or triangle pattern. To save on production costs, most union suits have a vertical, single-button seat. When it gees to buttons, more is better. You don't want the suit to pucker open when sitting--with embarassing results. Zippers seal out the drafts but may irritate without a storm flap-style feature. Those made especially for women usually button right over left in Victorian tradition. Colors vary. White, cream, or natural being encountered most often, to the familiar fire-engine red, and varying shades of grey. More recently, blue union suits can be found. Also tan, olive drab, green, and even "Realtree" camouflage pattern. Some novelty catalogs offer a tie-dyed union suit. Women's pattern union suits have been offered by Duofold in solid rose pink, and various floral patterns over the years. All made in medium-weight two-ply fabric. The footed sleeper, worn by kids of all ages, is actually a modified union suit. Some credit it's invention to Dr. Denton.
Tips On Experienced Condition Union Suits:
Are all the buttons original?
Any popped seams, popped stitchesor tears?
What sort of seat flap, if any?
Any faded or threadbare areas?
Repairs or patches?
Any stains or discoloration?
Actual size vs. stated size.
Big, tall, or regular size?
Why Own or Wear a Union Suit?
A layer between yourself and rough fabric when working or riding horseback.
Sleepwear at home or camp.
Costumeitem.
Fashion statement.
Exercise wear.
Gag gift.
No elastic waist bands.
The double-takes from passersby as they hang from your clothesline.
Costume Suggestion
You will need a union suit a size or two larger than you normally wear (unless you're among friends). AddAnimal Mask, tail, gloves or mittens, shoe covers/novelty socks or slippers. Flop the tail out the back flap. Tell everyone that you were scared out of you hide or your hide/pelt was sent out for cleaning/stolen/ in hock. A contender for most orginal/most creative/cutest costume. This idea got me into the semi-finals at a local casino. The Native Americans there really appreciate a good-humored moose. Make sure you keep yourself hydrated--no alcohol. A cool vest is a must if you're wearing a set of medium weight, or heavier longies for more than an hour. You could put cold freezer packs in your pants pockets or in an outsized athletic braunderneath, but don't let them touch your bare skin to avoid frostbite. You can even make a muscle suit by stuffing polyester or cotton batting between two union suits.
Famous People WhoWore Union Suits
Sharon Stone
Larry Storch
Stan Laurel
Faye Dunaway
Joan Hackett
Harry Morgan
Loretta Switt
Spike Jones
Michael J. Fox
Walter Mathau
Tim Allen
Jeff Daniels
Don Knotts
John Glenn, Jr.
Dustin Hoffman
Tips On Experienced Condition Union Suits:
Are all the buttons original?
Any popped seams, popped stitchesor tears?
What sort of seat flap, if any?
Any faded or threadbare areas?
Repairs or patches?
Any stains or discoloration?
Actual size vs. stated size.
Big, tall, or regular size?
Why Own or Wear a Union Suit?
A layer between yourself and rough fabric when working or riding horseback.
Sleepwear at home or camp.
Costumeitem.
Fashion statement.
Exercise wear.
Gag gift.
No elastic waist bands.
The double-takes from passersby as they hang from your clothesline.
Costume Suggestion
You will need a union suit a size or two larger than you normally wear (unless you're among friends). AddAnimal Mask, tail, gloves or mittens, shoe covers/novelty socks or slippers. Flop the tail out the back flap. Tell everyone that you were scared out of you hide or your hide/pelt was sent out for cleaning/stolen/ in hock. A contender for most orginal/most creative/cutest costume. This idea got me into the semi-finals at a local casino. The Native Americans there really appreciate a good-humored moose. Make sure you keep yourself hydrated--no alcohol. A cool vest is a must if you're wearing a set of medium weight, or heavier longies for more than an hour. You could put cold freezer packs in your pants pockets or in an outsized athletic braunderneath, but don't let them touch your bare skin to avoid frostbite. You can even make a muscle suit by stuffing polyester or cotton batting between two union suits.
Famous People WhoWore Union Suits
Sharon Stone
Larry Storch
Stan Laurel
Faye Dunaway
Joan Hackett
Harry Morgan
Loretta Switt
Spike Jones
Michael J. Fox
Walter Mathau
Tim Allen
Jeff Daniels
Don Knotts
John Glenn, Jr.
Dustin Hoffman
I'm thinking of investing in silver...
Investors traditionallylook totheprecious metals markets when the economy gets iffy. A weak dollar, high oil prices, and rising inflation are sure signs that the metals market is starting to look good for all kinds of investors. The big investor isn't likely looking to buy large quantities of the physical metal, no more than the small investor is going to sink thousands into investment funds. The middle ground could be in silver bullion.
There is no crystal ball that tells us where spot (current buy/sell price of) silver will be six months from now. It seems, however, that the recent (summer 2006) trend in the price of silveris to hover aroundthe $12 per ounce range (about $13 per ounce for winter 2007 and spring 2007). It's truly anyone's guesswhatworld politics and the economy is going to go throughover the nexttwelve months. If you're a pessimist andpredict bad thingsare going tohappen,silvercould surge towards that $20 per ounce threshhold. If, on the other hand, you're more optomistic, silver prices will likely remain somewhat stable. Somewhere in the middlearesilver prices that edge towards the$15to $16per ounce level.
Somethingto consider is the fact that silver mining is usually secondary to other mining operations. Most mines are focused on other types of metals mining. Consider also the fact that the bulk of silver mines are in volatile parts of the world. Consider that in the U.S., silver mining is on the wane, with its silver resources almost depleted. Consider thatcountries (like the U.S.) who keepa precious metal reserve do not have a silver bullion reserve.Finally, consider that there is an increase in the industrial use of silver. So, what should the average investor do?
I tend to think silver bullion investors are conservative and cautious. In my opinion, buying a reasonable amount of silver bullion or silver coins is probably a pretty good idea. In my opinion, diverting a reasonable percentage of your investments towards the silver market will likely give you a better return than other market investing. If you do decide to invest in bullion, remember that bullion coins, such as the U.S. Eagle, the Canadian Maple Leaf, and other bullion coins, will typically sell for a few dollars above spot prices (depending on the year and mintage). Silver bars and rounds usully sell closer to spot prices. Spot prices ofsilver and goldcan be found on larger precious metals dealer's websites like Monex and Kitco.
Please note that this guide was originally written in 2006 and updated in 2007. Well, it is now 2011 and spot silver is almost $31 per ounce. This exceeds my short term prediction of silver hitting $20 per ounce, but as we all know the economy has been pretty rough over the last 3 years. I'm quite sure many investors are wondering what the future holds for silver bullion. My guess is that the U.S. economic reovery, which began in 2010, will remain very slow and that spot silver prices will continuean upward trend. Honestly, I doubt we'll ever see $20/oz silver again.
One nice thing about moderately investing in silver bullion is theuniqueness ofbeing able tokeepa very tradable gemodity on hand.
Thank youfor reading this guide!
There is no crystal ball that tells us where spot (current buy/sell price of) silver will be six months from now. It seems, however, that the recent (summer 2006) trend in the price of silveris to hover aroundthe $12 per ounce range (about $13 per ounce for winter 2007 and spring 2007). It's truly anyone's guesswhatworld politics and the economy is going to go throughover the nexttwelve months. If you're a pessimist andpredict bad thingsare going tohappen,silvercould surge towards that $20 per ounce threshhold. If, on the other hand, you're more optomistic, silver prices will likely remain somewhat stable. Somewhere in the middlearesilver prices that edge towards the$15to $16per ounce level.
Somethingto consider is the fact that silver mining is usually secondary to other mining operations. Most mines are focused on other types of metals mining. Consider also the fact that the bulk of silver mines are in volatile parts of the world. Consider that in the U.S., silver mining is on the wane, with its silver resources almost depleted. Consider thatcountries (like the U.S.) who keepa precious metal reserve do not have a silver bullion reserve.Finally, consider that there is an increase in the industrial use of silver. So, what should the average investor do?
I tend to think silver bullion investors are conservative and cautious. In my opinion, buying a reasonable amount of silver bullion or silver coins is probably a pretty good idea. In my opinion, diverting a reasonable percentage of your investments towards the silver market will likely give you a better return than other market investing. If you do decide to invest in bullion, remember that bullion coins, such as the U.S. Eagle, the Canadian Maple Leaf, and other bullion coins, will typically sell for a few dollars above spot prices (depending on the year and mintage). Silver bars and rounds usully sell closer to spot prices. Spot prices ofsilver and goldcan be found on larger precious metals dealer's websites like Monex and Kitco.
Please note that this guide was originally written in 2006 and updated in 2007. Well, it is now 2011 and spot silver is almost $31 per ounce. This exceeds my short term prediction of silver hitting $20 per ounce, but as we all know the economy has been pretty rough over the last 3 years. I'm quite sure many investors are wondering what the future holds for silver bullion. My guess is that the U.S. economic reovery, which began in 2010, will remain very slow and that spot silver prices will continuean upward trend. Honestly, I doubt we'll ever see $20/oz silver again.
One nice thing about moderately investing in silver bullion is theuniqueness ofbeing able tokeepa very tradable gemodity on hand.
Thank youfor reading this guide!
Seller beware of paypal policy!
If you don't follow paypals hard to find policy of: (#1. selling to a confirmed buyer #2. sending item with delivery conformation and #3. and using a tracking number) then you are liable for any fraudulent buyer you may have the miss fortune of being swindled by! My son got taken buy a fraudulent buyer and now he is on the hook for $700.00. He is only 18 and didn't read the fine print although he sold many items without a problem before this. Now my account is frozen because any account that shares any of the same info such as phone, address, bank account etc. will also be frozen untill the bad account is corrected. We did our part to assist in the investigation (which is all paypal said they wanted?) yet paypal sent us to collection! So don't get duped and don't trust paypal if you can get hold of them through their frustating reloution department!
Benefits of Breastfeeding
Benefits of Breastfeeding
Babies who are breastfed have:
*Stronger immune systems
*Skills to walk and talk an average of 2 months earlier
*Less Allergies and Asthma
*Less Diarrhea, Stomach problems and Gas!
*Higher IQ- average of 15-20 points
*Less Diaper Rash
*Less Infections-Ear, Respiratory, Etc.
*Less Cancers and Heart problems
*Less problems with Speech development
*Straighter teeth-Less likelihood of having wisdom teeth removed
*Less Child Abuse
*Better overall development
Mothers Who Breastfeed:
*Are at less risk for Post-Partum Depression
*Have less likelihood for Anemia and Hemorrhage(heavy bleeding)
*Uterus shrinks back to pre-pregnancy size faster
*Burn extra 800 calories per day to return to pre-pregnancy weight sooner
*Less chance of Osteoporosis
*Less likely to have Breast cancer, Ovarian cancer and Uterine cancer
*Do not need to change their diet!
*Have delayed return of Fertility and monthly period
*Less Absenteeism due to illness
*Get to have amazing bonding and relaxing time with their babies!
*Have less doctor appointments and hospital visits
*Don't have to heat up bottles. Breastmilk is always the right temperature!
*SAVE LOTS OF MONEY by not having to buy bottles and expensive formulas!
How long should you breastfeed?
This is a very personal choice to be made by you and your baby! 3 days, 3 weeks, 3 months, 3 years? All are just great! It is your choice to make. Any amount of breastfeeding is better than none. The longer you breastfeed your baby, the more benefits both you and your baby will enjoy. The American Academy of Pediatrics suggests a baby should breastfeed for one year or as long as a mother and baby feel gefortable. Whatever amount of time you decide to breastfeed, you can feel GREAT that you are giving your baby the best nutrition possible!!!
Have any questions regarding this information? As always, Mother's Milk is here to help! Please call our lactation specialists at 1-877-892-4932.Check out our amazing Breastfeeding products/breast pumpson our okay homepage-
Mother's Milk Breastfeeding Supplies
okay name-mothersmilkbreastfeeding
Babies who are breastfed have:
*Stronger immune systems
*Skills to walk and talk an average of 2 months earlier
*Less Allergies and Asthma
*Less Diarrhea, Stomach problems and Gas!
*Higher IQ- average of 15-20 points
*Less Diaper Rash
*Less Infections-Ear, Respiratory, Etc.
*Less Cancers and Heart problems
*Less problems with Speech development
*Straighter teeth-Less likelihood of having wisdom teeth removed
*Less Child Abuse
*Better overall development
Mothers Who Breastfeed:
*Are at less risk for Post-Partum Depression
*Have less likelihood for Anemia and Hemorrhage(heavy bleeding)
*Uterus shrinks back to pre-pregnancy size faster
*Burn extra 800 calories per day to return to pre-pregnancy weight sooner
*Less chance of Osteoporosis
*Less likely to have Breast cancer, Ovarian cancer and Uterine cancer
*Do not need to change their diet!
*Have delayed return of Fertility and monthly period
*Less Absenteeism due to illness
*Get to have amazing bonding and relaxing time with their babies!
*Have less doctor appointments and hospital visits
*Don't have to heat up bottles. Breastmilk is always the right temperature!
*SAVE LOTS OF MONEY by not having to buy bottles and expensive formulas!
How long should you breastfeed?
This is a very personal choice to be made by you and your baby! 3 days, 3 weeks, 3 months, 3 years? All are just great! It is your choice to make. Any amount of breastfeeding is better than none. The longer you breastfeed your baby, the more benefits both you and your baby will enjoy. The American Academy of Pediatrics suggests a baby should breastfeed for one year or as long as a mother and baby feel gefortable. Whatever amount of time you decide to breastfeed, you can feel GREAT that you are giving your baby the best nutrition possible!!!
Have any questions regarding this information? As always, Mother's Milk is here to help! Please call our lactation specialists at 1-877-892-4932.Check out our amazing Breastfeeding products/breast pumpson our okay homepage-
Mother's Milk Breastfeeding Supplies
okay name-mothersmilkbreastfeeding
The Ultimate Johnny Depp DVD Video Collection Part 2
The Ultimate Johnny Depp DVD Video Collection
Part 2
(Continued FromPart 1)
What's Eating Gilbert Grape(1993) Arnie know a secret. His big brother Gilber is the greatest person on the planet.
Depp plays: Gilbert, a young boy who has to care for his brother Arnie and obese mother, which get's in the way when love walks into his life.
Ed Wood(1994) Movies were his passion. Women were his inspiration. Angora sweaters were his weakness.
Depp plays: Ed Wood, legendary director of awful movies and his strange group of friends and actors.
Don Juan DeMarco(1995) The story of the man who thought he was the greatest lover in the world...and the people who tried to cure him of it!
Depp plays: A young psychiatric patient who presents himself as Don Juan, the greatest lover in the world.
Dead Man(1995) No one can survive begeing a ledgend.
Depp plays: William Blake, a man on the run for murder who meets an indian who prepares him for his journey into the spiritual world.
Nick Of Time(1995) Ninety minutes. Six bullets. No Choice.
Depp plays: Gene Watson, who is ordered to kill someone in one hour and fifteen minutes in exchange for the safe return of his kidnapped daughter.
Donnie Brasco(1997) Donnie Brasco. Based On A True Story.
Depp plays: FBI agent Donnie Brasco/ Mobster "Joe" Pistone
The Brave(1997) (No Tag Line Available)
Depp plays: Down on his luck, native american indian Raphael, who agrees to star in a snuff film in exchange for $50,000.
Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas(1998) Give us your brain for two hours and you will never be the same again...
Depp plays: Raoul Duke, psychopathic lawyer who travels to Las Vegas with an oddball journalist for a series of psychadelic escapdes.
The Ninth Gate(1999) Leave the unknown alone.
Depp plays: Dean Corso, a book dealer who seeks out the last two copies of a demon text and is drawn into a conspiracy with supernatural ovetones.
The Astronaut's Wife(1999) How well do you know the one you love?
Depp plays: Astronaunt Spencer Armacoust ison a mission, when he loses contact with Earth. When he returns home to his wife, she begees pregnant, but feels like the lives inside of her are not of this world.
The Ultimate Johnny Depp DVD Video Collection
Part 3
Your Vote Counts!
Please vote "Yes" if you found this guide useful.
Happy okay Adventures! ~borrowedbooks
Part 2
(Continued FromPart 1)
What's Eating Gilbert Grape(1993) Arnie know a secret. His big brother Gilber is the greatest person on the planet.
Depp plays: Gilbert, a young boy who has to care for his brother Arnie and obese mother, which get's in the way when love walks into his life.
Ed Wood(1994) Movies were his passion. Women were his inspiration. Angora sweaters were his weakness.
Depp plays: Ed Wood, legendary director of awful movies and his strange group of friends and actors.
Don Juan DeMarco(1995) The story of the man who thought he was the greatest lover in the world...and the people who tried to cure him of it!
Depp plays: A young psychiatric patient who presents himself as Don Juan, the greatest lover in the world.
Dead Man(1995) No one can survive begeing a ledgend.
Depp plays: William Blake, a man on the run for murder who meets an indian who prepares him for his journey into the spiritual world.
Nick Of Time(1995) Ninety minutes. Six bullets. No Choice.
Depp plays: Gene Watson, who is ordered to kill someone in one hour and fifteen minutes in exchange for the safe return of his kidnapped daughter.
Donnie Brasco(1997) Donnie Brasco. Based On A True Story.
Depp plays: FBI agent Donnie Brasco/ Mobster "Joe" Pistone
The Brave(1997) (No Tag Line Available)
Depp plays: Down on his luck, native american indian Raphael, who agrees to star in a snuff film in exchange for $50,000.
Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas(1998) Give us your brain for two hours and you will never be the same again...
Depp plays: Raoul Duke, psychopathic lawyer who travels to Las Vegas with an oddball journalist for a series of psychadelic escapdes.
The Ninth Gate(1999) Leave the unknown alone.
Depp plays: Dean Corso, a book dealer who seeks out the last two copies of a demon text and is drawn into a conspiracy with supernatural ovetones.
The Astronaut's Wife(1999) How well do you know the one you love?
Depp plays: Astronaunt Spencer Armacoust ison a mission, when he loses contact with Earth. When he returns home to his wife, she begees pregnant, but feels like the lives inside of her are not of this world.
The Ultimate Johnny Depp DVD Video Collection
Part 3
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Please vote "Yes" if you found this guide useful.
Happy okay Adventures! ~borrowedbooks
The First Old West Replica Badges
The first old west replica law badges gemercially produced were made by L.A. Stamp and Stationery in the late 1950s and early 1960s. These were sold at popular tourist attractions like Knott's Berry Farm and Disneyland. There were also a few large gun shops like Great Western Arms that handled them too.
They sold in the 4 to 5 dollar range and all of them had the word REPLICA on the back. Many of the old west badges you see today on okay and gun shows were patterned after these early old west badges.
They sold in the 4 to 5 dollar range and all of them had the word REPLICA on the back. Many of the old west badges you see today on okay and gun shows were patterned after these early old west badges.
CF Martin SP Fingerstyle Guitar Strings - Different?
How do Martin's SP Fingerstyle StringsDiffer from their Regular SP Strings?
by Craig 'Lumpy' Lemke BSEd, MA
"songthief"
C.F. Martin's new SP Fingerstyle is a regular SP stringwith it's characteristic bronze plated plain andcore wires. But the core wires in the wound stringsare smaller diameter than in regular SP's. Thethickness of the wire used to wrap the stringsis larger so that the end result is the samediameter string, with (in some cases) a littleless tension.
Once the winding wires are made with larger gauge wire,the "sawtooth" effect of the string begees more pronounced.There will likely be more finger squeak noise as you movearound on the fret board.
There will also be less harmonic overtones produced by thesmaller diameter core wire. Whatever guitar you play maytend to sound a bit more like a Martin and less like aLowden or some other typically harmonic rich guitar.More fundamental, less overtones.
The core wire on ALL strings, regardless of brand,is plain Swedish steel. It all gees from the same placeon big spools. Only difference at all is the diameter. SPcore wires are then plated with bronze (copper/zinc or copper/tinalloy)and then the winding is added. The WINDING wire is made of92/8 copper/tin (for phos bronze strings) or 80/20copper/zinc (for 80/20 strings). 92/8 is more correctlycalled bronze. 80/20 is more correctly called brass.
Thomastik-Infeld does the same thing for some of theirincredibly expensive strings. They plate the plain steelwith bronze.
Bronze or brass is softer than steel. Think brass plumbingfittings vs steel bolts. Anytime we have a larger area ofbronze or brass between the fret and the steel core wire,that bronze/brass will absorb more of the physical traumathat we give to the string when we fret or capo it.
Consider, for example, the plain strings vs the wound.
If you remove a plain string after abusing it for toolong, and look at it with a magnifier, you'll see tarnishand maybe a little tiny bit of indentation. But the majorityof the "abuse" is borne by the fret, which is made ofnickel/copper alloy, and softer than the steel string.The steel string dents the fret, not the other way around.Look at a guitar that's been played for a few yearsand you'll typically see lots of fret wear aroundthe first few frets in the area of the 1st and 2nd strings.
Now remove a wound string from the same guitar.You'll see flattened, even broken windings. In thiscase, the winding wire is softer than the fret. So thewinding is taking the brunt of the abuse, not the fret.
All of this suggests a couple of things:
1) We probably WANT the strings to wear out fasterthan the frets. Strings are easier and less expensiveto replace than frets.
2) The first two strings, the plain wires, won't makeany difference at all to the sound or life of the strings.
SO
The fingerstyle set should theoretically sound a littleless harmonic rich. They should wear a little faster andthey will haveless than 2 lbstotal tension difference.The tension difference will all be within the 3 through 6thstrings (the wound strings).
Here's the geparisons in gauges and tension in lbs.
SetGauge 1 2 3 4 5 6 Tension lbs
SP Phos Bronze Strings 6 StringMSP-4100 Light .012 .016 .025 .032 .042 .054 164.8MSP-4200 Medium .013 .017 .026 .035 .045 .056 186.2
SP Fingerstyle Phos Bronze 6 StringMSP41FS Light .012 .016 .025 .032 .042 .054 163.2MSP42FS Medium .013 .017 .026 .035 .045 .056 184.8
Difference here, in tension, is -Lt Gauge 164.8 (regular SP)vs 163.2 lbs (fingerstyle SP)MedGauge 186.2 (regular SP)vs 184.8 lbs (fingerstyle SP)
SP 80/20 6 StringMSP-3100 Light .012 .016 .025 .032 .042 .054 160.5MSP-3200 Medium .013 .017 .026 .035 .045 .056 181.1
SP Fingerstyle 80/20MSP31FS Light .012 .016 .025 .032 .042 .054 161.4MSP32FS Medium .013 .017 .026 .035 .045 .056 182.8
Difference here is -Lt Gauge 160.5 (regular SP)vs 161.4 lbs (fingerstyle SP)MedGauge 181.1 (regular SP)vs 182.8 lbs (fingerstyle SP)
Note that in 80/20 strings, the SP Fingerstyle strings are HIGHER in tension.
I change strings frequently. My Lowden mini jumboand my Martin OM get new strings once a week. Theyget very heavy use in heavy Kottke-like fingerstyleplayed with thick acrylic nails and a lot ofpercussive, loud effects.
For ME personally, I want a string with as much tension asI can stand so that my right hand has some resistance towork against and so that I can get a bigger range ofdynamics. I can get away with really heavy strings whenplaying fingerstyle. ButI also play a lot of chord melodyjazz style with lots of barre chords, my left hand doesn'tsuffer and I sometimes do it for several hours daily. I believethat good body mechanics allows anyone to achieve that.
My Lowden typicallywears SP4250's and is usually tuned to standardor DADGAD or DGDGBD or DGCGCD but down a half step fromconcert pitch. The downtuning is primarily for the growlof the low end and notto reduce tension. If I took it down furtherthe tension would begin to be so low that tone would suffer.
My Martin OM wears SP4200's in standard concert tuning.
So what does this all mean?
The new strings will have less than two pounds tensiondifference. They will sound darker. They will wearquicker. They will have more finger squeak.
If you have thoughts, theories or guesses about howyou feel regarding strings on your guitar(s), I'dbe honored to hear them. The strings I sell areonly the strings that I use professionally. Idon't sell styles or types that I don't usemyself. So all of my thoughts and gementsgee from personal experience and my ownsubjective opinions.
Craig 'Lumpy' Lemke - okay songthief
by Craig 'Lumpy' Lemke BSEd, MA
"songthief"
C.F. Martin's new SP Fingerstyle is a regular SP stringwith it's characteristic bronze plated plain andcore wires. But the core wires in the wound stringsare smaller diameter than in regular SP's. Thethickness of the wire used to wrap the stringsis larger so that the end result is the samediameter string, with (in some cases) a littleless tension.
Once the winding wires are made with larger gauge wire,the "sawtooth" effect of the string begees more pronounced.There will likely be more finger squeak noise as you movearound on the fret board.
There will also be less harmonic overtones produced by thesmaller diameter core wire. Whatever guitar you play maytend to sound a bit more like a Martin and less like aLowden or some other typically harmonic rich guitar.More fundamental, less overtones.
The core wire on ALL strings, regardless of brand,is plain Swedish steel. It all gees from the same placeon big spools. Only difference at all is the diameter. SPcore wires are then plated with bronze (copper/zinc or copper/tinalloy)and then the winding is added. The WINDING wire is made of92/8 copper/tin (for phos bronze strings) or 80/20copper/zinc (for 80/20 strings). 92/8 is more correctlycalled bronze. 80/20 is more correctly called brass.
Thomastik-Infeld does the same thing for some of theirincredibly expensive strings. They plate the plain steelwith bronze.
Bronze or brass is softer than steel. Think brass plumbingfittings vs steel bolts. Anytime we have a larger area ofbronze or brass between the fret and the steel core wire,that bronze/brass will absorb more of the physical traumathat we give to the string when we fret or capo it.
Consider, for example, the plain strings vs the wound.
If you remove a plain string after abusing it for toolong, and look at it with a magnifier, you'll see tarnishand maybe a little tiny bit of indentation. But the majorityof the "abuse" is borne by the fret, which is made ofnickel/copper alloy, and softer than the steel string.The steel string dents the fret, not the other way around.Look at a guitar that's been played for a few yearsand you'll typically see lots of fret wear aroundthe first few frets in the area of the 1st and 2nd strings.
Now remove a wound string from the same guitar.You'll see flattened, even broken windings. In thiscase, the winding wire is softer than the fret. So thewinding is taking the brunt of the abuse, not the fret.
All of this suggests a couple of things:
1) We probably WANT the strings to wear out fasterthan the frets. Strings are easier and less expensiveto replace than frets.
2) The first two strings, the plain wires, won't makeany difference at all to the sound or life of the strings.
SO
The fingerstyle set should theoretically sound a littleless harmonic rich. They should wear a little faster andthey will haveless than 2 lbstotal tension difference.The tension difference will all be within the 3 through 6thstrings (the wound strings).
Here's the geparisons in gauges and tension in lbs.
SetGauge 1 2 3 4 5 6 Tension lbs
SP Phos Bronze Strings 6 StringMSP-4100 Light .012 .016 .025 .032 .042 .054 164.8MSP-4200 Medium .013 .017 .026 .035 .045 .056 186.2
SP Fingerstyle Phos Bronze 6 StringMSP41FS Light .012 .016 .025 .032 .042 .054 163.2MSP42FS Medium .013 .017 .026 .035 .045 .056 184.8
Difference here, in tension, is -Lt Gauge 164.8 (regular SP)vs 163.2 lbs (fingerstyle SP)MedGauge 186.2 (regular SP)vs 184.8 lbs (fingerstyle SP)
SP 80/20 6 StringMSP-3100 Light .012 .016 .025 .032 .042 .054 160.5MSP-3200 Medium .013 .017 .026 .035 .045 .056 181.1
SP Fingerstyle 80/20MSP31FS Light .012 .016 .025 .032 .042 .054 161.4MSP32FS Medium .013 .017 .026 .035 .045 .056 182.8
Difference here is -Lt Gauge 160.5 (regular SP)vs 161.4 lbs (fingerstyle SP)MedGauge 181.1 (regular SP)vs 182.8 lbs (fingerstyle SP)
Note that in 80/20 strings, the SP Fingerstyle strings are HIGHER in tension.
I change strings frequently. My Lowden mini jumboand my Martin OM get new strings once a week. Theyget very heavy use in heavy Kottke-like fingerstyleplayed with thick acrylic nails and a lot ofpercussive, loud effects.
For ME personally, I want a string with as much tension asI can stand so that my right hand has some resistance towork against and so that I can get a bigger range ofdynamics. I can get away with really heavy strings whenplaying fingerstyle. ButI also play a lot of chord melodyjazz style with lots of barre chords, my left hand doesn'tsuffer and I sometimes do it for several hours daily. I believethat good body mechanics allows anyone to achieve that.
My Lowden typicallywears SP4250's and is usually tuned to standardor DADGAD or DGDGBD or DGCGCD but down a half step fromconcert pitch. The downtuning is primarily for the growlof the low end and notto reduce tension. If I took it down furtherthe tension would begin to be so low that tone would suffer.
My Martin OM wears SP4200's in standard concert tuning.
So what does this all mean?
The new strings will have less than two pounds tensiondifference. They will sound darker. They will wearquicker. They will have more finger squeak.
If you have thoughts, theories or guesses about howyou feel regarding strings on your guitar(s), I'dbe honored to hear them. The strings I sell areonly the strings that I use professionally. Idon't sell styles or types that I don't usemyself. So all of my thoughts and gementsgee from personal experience and my ownsubjective opinions.
Craig 'Lumpy' Lemke - okay songthief
How to Deal with Buyers Remorse Without Lying!
How to Deal with Buyers Remorse Without Lying!
We have all done it, purchased an item online that either we didn't need or paid more then we expected for an item. The package arrives and you get the feeling in the pit of your stomach of, "what did I do?" Temptation to figure out a reason to return it to your item jumps up, especially if you have a spouse who might not understand your purchase. Could I say it was damaged? Could I say it was not what I ordered? Many devious ways to get your money back and make your buyers remorse go away pop into your mind.
There is indeed a way to deal with buyer's remorse without lying! There is a way to make yourself feel better and enjoy your purchase without the guilt.
First, look at the item that you purchased. Does it enrich your life or bring joy or brightness to your home? Is it a quality item? Does it fit the need that you purchased it for? If the answers are yes, be reassured that you made a wonderful purchase. Anything that enriches your life and brings happiness and joy is worth the price.
If the answer is no, you can still get rid of your buyers remorse without resulting to deviousness.
The good news is that there are several options open to you! First is reselling the item. Place it back up on okay or in a newspaper or other selling forum and try to get some if not all of your money back for the item. Another option is to donate your item to a charity auction or sale. By doing that you will have both a tax write off as well as the reward of doing something positive for others. Or you could give it as a special gift to a friend for a birthday, anniversary, wedding or just because. Any option you choose, please remember to give the artist proper credit for their work.
Never feel bad about a purchase. You got it for a reason and can always find some way to have the item bring you joy, peace and happiness!
Happy Buying!
Kim AdamsCreative Spirit Creations
We have all done it, purchased an item online that either we didn't need or paid more then we expected for an item. The package arrives and you get the feeling in the pit of your stomach of, "what did I do?" Temptation to figure out a reason to return it to your item jumps up, especially if you have a spouse who might not understand your purchase. Could I say it was damaged? Could I say it was not what I ordered? Many devious ways to get your money back and make your buyers remorse go away pop into your mind.
There is indeed a way to deal with buyer's remorse without lying! There is a way to make yourself feel better and enjoy your purchase without the guilt.
First, look at the item that you purchased. Does it enrich your life or bring joy or brightness to your home? Is it a quality item? Does it fit the need that you purchased it for? If the answers are yes, be reassured that you made a wonderful purchase. Anything that enriches your life and brings happiness and joy is worth the price.
If the answer is no, you can still get rid of your buyers remorse without resulting to deviousness.
The good news is that there are several options open to you! First is reselling the item. Place it back up on okay or in a newspaper or other selling forum and try to get some if not all of your money back for the item. Another option is to donate your item to a charity auction or sale. By doing that you will have both a tax write off as well as the reward of doing something positive for others. Or you could give it as a special gift to a friend for a birthday, anniversary, wedding or just because. Any option you choose, please remember to give the artist proper credit for their work.
Never feel bad about a purchase. You got it for a reason and can always find some way to have the item bring you joy, peace and happiness!
Happy Buying!
Kim AdamsCreative Spirit Creations
What You Need for College Dorm Life
Hello, college freshmen! Welgee to the next four years of your life, which will quite possibly turn out to be the busiest years you've ever experienced so far! Because so much of college life is a mystery (what will classes be like? what if my dorm mates hate me? how should I dress for a kegger?), I am writing this guide in order to help fellow students during their move-in days.
My only education in the matter of collegiate life is my own current location in the college ranking: I am a sophomore (which means second year of college, for us of those not in the know yet), with one full year of dorm living under my belt. I am not yet quite 'jaded' by dorm living, but I still have the experience of my year living out of home. Therefore, I consider myself quite prepared to offer tips on college living for the modern teenager. However, I am also fully aware that you must be 21 to drink legally in the United States, and at no point will I condone drinking by college freshman, sophomores, or juniors if they are underage. (Scientific evidence shows that drinking can lead to brain development problems in the underaged brain, as the brain is not yet fully formed until it is about 20 or so.) But enough with the depressing stuff! Onto the college packing!
What to pack
Obviously, you know that you're going to need clothing, toiletries and the like. However, I will make a list of some of the items that you might not realize you needuntil you arrive, in order to help savetime trying to buy themafter moving in.
Shower caddy (this is a plastic or fabric bag or box that carries yourbathing items. As some dorms have gemunal bathrooms, keeping your stuff near you andorganized at all times is a must!)
Money for books (sure, your parents know you need money--butinthe firstsemester alone, it'spossible to spend $500 onbooks and supplies alone!)
Ear plugs (if you get noisy roommates like I did, these will be worth their weight in GOLD)
Bottle opener (random, I know, but it's not just for beer! If you drink any other beverages in bottles [sparkling cider, Coca Cola, etc] then you will be stuck unless you have one of these babies.)
Extra Long bedding(most colleges haveextra long beds, and if you don't getthe right bedding, it won't fit your bed!)
Hanging files (with all of the handouts, pamphletsandimportant papers you get in college, you are going to NEED one of these!A small, portable hanging fileis best,with tabs forfinancial documents, fraternity/soroity info, housing contracts, maps, andany other tabs your major mightrequire.)
Cup/dishes/flatware(if your dorm isequipped with a kitchen, you willdefinitely needsome dishes. However, even dorms with just a mini-fridge would do to keep a cupor two around, as it's cheaper to buy soda by the liter than by the can.)
Blanket/beach towel(even if there's no beach or pool around, colleges sometimes haveopen air events, and having something to sit on will be much appreciated by your buddies)
Sunblock/sunscreen (don't want to get burned!)
First Aid Kit(ofcourse your college will have a nurses office of some kind, but if you get a small scratch, you won't want to be running across campus. Make sure this kit includes Band-Aids in various sizes, some sterile gauze bandages,Neosporin[or another antibiotic ointment], painkillers, Ibuprofin[for allergic reactions], cold/heat pad, and any other medications or items that would be relevant to any conditions that you might get/do have.)
Telephone with answering machine(this is only if you have a telephone line in your room. It's very important to be able to get messages whileyou're out at class!)
Address book (chances are, you'll be meeting new friends and future collegues at college, and it's nice to have a place to write all their names and numbers down on -- andNOT just in your cellphone! Cellphones can get easily killed at college, so make sure to have a hardcopy backup)
Calendar(obviously, writing down all your classes will help you to prepare and plan around them, so get a nice BIG one with big boxes to write all your classes down in)
Pocket calendar(often, having a smaller version of yourplans to carry around makesit easier to keep track ofthings in class that may change suddenly, so you won't have to change it on your calendar whenyou get home)
Posters (this seems a little mundane, but college dorms can be very bleak at times, especially when you're homesick, so make sure to bring little reminders, pictures, and posters of home and things you love.)
Prepaid calling card (if a college gives you phone service for free, chances are they don't allow you to make long distance calls. So, make sure to bringone of these puppies so that you can keep in touch!)
Stampsand envelopes(occasionallyyou mightwant/need to mail something, and not having stamps can be a real downer!)
List of emergency numbers (your collegeshould have these publically posted, butjust in case,make sure to make a copy for both yourself and your parents. These numbers arewho you should call inthe case of an emergency at your college, as well as numbers for the local police and fire station)
Fun books (sometimes, you'll want a break from boring text books, so make sure to bring a few books you can relax while you read)
Eyemask (also called "daysleeper", these are a BOON to nap-taking college students. As naps begeefrequent for those of us cursed with early classes, I highly regemend these.)
Alarm clock (clearly, you'll need to wake up for classes, and asking your roommates usually won't work!)
Tips and Tricks for College Living
Your dormmates and you might not turn out to be friends, and this is okay. I personally had a host of HORRIBLE roommates (regularly came home drunk andvomiting, had boys sleeping over all the time, had said boys vomiting inshared toilets, kept up the entire dorm til 2AM regularly, etc), but I managed to deal with them with minor mishap throughout the year. The trick is to only deal with them when you HAVE to, and merely remain cordialwhen you meet otherwise. If you have problems with them, wait until they are dead sober to talk to them, as I found out the hard way that arguing with a drunk does nothing.
Get sleep whenever you can. Sleep begees a precious gemodity when you are in college, and staying up latelistening to music does not prepare you properly for your class the next day! So, if your roommates are keeping you up, make sure to haveearplugs and eyemask on hand! (This has saved me several nights of agony.)
Find public places to hide. If you do not like your roommates (which is gemon), make sure you know a student lounge, library study room, orquiet park where you can go to destress and study.You might even make a friend who's trying to escapehis or her crazy roommates, too!
Do not be pressured into drinking. EVER. While it may seem that all of your graduating class is doing it, they really aren't. And if you DOdecide to go drinking (which isagainst all better judgement), make SURE to bring a buddy to keep an eye on you.People who have never drank before are more likely to drink too much and get sick and possibly die, so make sure to alternate your alcoholic drinks with water, and make sure to eat BEFORE yougo drinking. (Eating while you drink will do nothing, but having some food in your stomach helps the alcohol disperse A LITTLE.)Also, if you have to drive home, DO NOT DO SO DRUNK!!!EVER!! Even if you have to take a cab, or even if you have to stay at someone's house overnight,DO NOT DRIVE DRUNK!
Do not panic if your teachers are butts. I wasrecently advised that if you find five(5!) teachers that you like in your ENTIRE college career, you're lucky. So, be prepared to hate some of your teachers, andtry to put up with them for as long as you can if it is impossible to transfer out of their class.
Be aware of transfer and sign up dates for your classes! These seem easy toremember, but they're not, and they could turn out to be KEY to doing well!
Get involved! While you don't have to be in EVERY club, make sure to find something fun to do at your school, so that even if you miss home, you'll have something fun to do every weekon campus.
Don't get in over your head! Joining activities is great, but if you're in so many that they feel more like a chore, don't feel bad about dropping out! It'll make you feel a lot less stressed out.
When buying food for yourdorm, buy liters of soda and some cups instead of cans, as A) it's less trash to take out, and B) it's cheaper!
Try to pack your lunch, as it will A) save time incafeteria lines, and B)probably have less fat than a normal school lunch.
BuyGALLONSof water and twoquality bottles! While this seems silly, if you drink enough water during the day, it will help curb your appetite, keep you hydrated while walking to classes, and help stave off the Freshman 15!So, fill up both bottles and alternate,washing each bottle as it begees empty and needs a cleaning.
Find what stores are near campus. Make sure to find a bike/car repair shop, a grocery store, a post office, a police station (or the campus security station), the medical office for campus, and any restaurants that you like. If you can figure out where these are before class begins,you'll be in great shape!
Watch outfor crime! There IS a lot of crime on campus, so try not to walk alone after dark, and don't walk around with headphones onor talking into your cellphone. These activities mark you as distracted and an "easy mark"for pickpockets!
In conclusion, I'd like to say, even withall my guidelines and tips, your college experience will beuniqueto YOU, and there's no way to gepletely tellexactly what it will be like! However, if you feel that you are properly prepared and educated about what you might face, I hope that you will feel confident and stress-free as you enter the exciting world of college life.Thanksfor reading, and have an awesome time at college!!
This guide is going to be updated fairly often, so if you have something you think was omitted or that should be added (or even some errors!), please do nothesitate to send me a message though okay. :) Thanks!
(This guide was last updated: August 24th, end of first week of classes!)
My only education in the matter of collegiate life is my own current location in the college ranking: I am a sophomore (which means second year of college, for us of those not in the know yet), with one full year of dorm living under my belt. I am not yet quite 'jaded' by dorm living, but I still have the experience of my year living out of home. Therefore, I consider myself quite prepared to offer tips on college living for the modern teenager. However, I am also fully aware that you must be 21 to drink legally in the United States, and at no point will I condone drinking by college freshman, sophomores, or juniors if they are underage. (Scientific evidence shows that drinking can lead to brain development problems in the underaged brain, as the brain is not yet fully formed until it is about 20 or so.) But enough with the depressing stuff! Onto the college packing!
What to pack
Obviously, you know that you're going to need clothing, toiletries and the like. However, I will make a list of some of the items that you might not realize you needuntil you arrive, in order to help savetime trying to buy themafter moving in.
Shower caddy (this is a plastic or fabric bag or box that carries yourbathing items. As some dorms have gemunal bathrooms, keeping your stuff near you andorganized at all times is a must!)
Money for books (sure, your parents know you need money--butinthe firstsemester alone, it'spossible to spend $500 onbooks and supplies alone!)
Ear plugs (if you get noisy roommates like I did, these will be worth their weight in GOLD)
Bottle opener (random, I know, but it's not just for beer! If you drink any other beverages in bottles [sparkling cider, Coca Cola, etc] then you will be stuck unless you have one of these babies.)
Extra Long bedding(most colleges haveextra long beds, and if you don't getthe right bedding, it won't fit your bed!)
Hanging files (with all of the handouts, pamphletsandimportant papers you get in college, you are going to NEED one of these!A small, portable hanging fileis best,with tabs forfinancial documents, fraternity/soroity info, housing contracts, maps, andany other tabs your major mightrequire.)
Cup/dishes/flatware(if your dorm isequipped with a kitchen, you willdefinitely needsome dishes. However, even dorms with just a mini-fridge would do to keep a cupor two around, as it's cheaper to buy soda by the liter than by the can.)
Blanket/beach towel(even if there's no beach or pool around, colleges sometimes haveopen air events, and having something to sit on will be much appreciated by your buddies)
Sunblock/sunscreen (don't want to get burned!)
First Aid Kit(ofcourse your college will have a nurses office of some kind, but if you get a small scratch, you won't want to be running across campus. Make sure this kit includes Band-Aids in various sizes, some sterile gauze bandages,Neosporin[or another antibiotic ointment], painkillers, Ibuprofin[for allergic reactions], cold/heat pad, and any other medications or items that would be relevant to any conditions that you might get/do have.)
Telephone with answering machine(this is only if you have a telephone line in your room. It's very important to be able to get messages whileyou're out at class!)
Address book (chances are, you'll be meeting new friends and future collegues at college, and it's nice to have a place to write all their names and numbers down on -- andNOT just in your cellphone! Cellphones can get easily killed at college, so make sure to have a hardcopy backup)
Calendar(obviously, writing down all your classes will help you to prepare and plan around them, so get a nice BIG one with big boxes to write all your classes down in)
Pocket calendar(often, having a smaller version of yourplans to carry around makesit easier to keep track ofthings in class that may change suddenly, so you won't have to change it on your calendar whenyou get home)
Posters (this seems a little mundane, but college dorms can be very bleak at times, especially when you're homesick, so make sure to bring little reminders, pictures, and posters of home and things you love.)
Prepaid calling card (if a college gives you phone service for free, chances are they don't allow you to make long distance calls. So, make sure to bringone of these puppies so that you can keep in touch!)
Stampsand envelopes(occasionallyyou mightwant/need to mail something, and not having stamps can be a real downer!)
List of emergency numbers (your collegeshould have these publically posted, butjust in case,make sure to make a copy for both yourself and your parents. These numbers arewho you should call inthe case of an emergency at your college, as well as numbers for the local police and fire station)
Fun books (sometimes, you'll want a break from boring text books, so make sure to bring a few books you can relax while you read)
Eyemask (also called "daysleeper", these are a BOON to nap-taking college students. As naps begeefrequent for those of us cursed with early classes, I highly regemend these.)
Alarm clock (clearly, you'll need to wake up for classes, and asking your roommates usually won't work!)
Tips and Tricks for College Living
Your dormmates and you might not turn out to be friends, and this is okay. I personally had a host of HORRIBLE roommates (regularly came home drunk andvomiting, had boys sleeping over all the time, had said boys vomiting inshared toilets, kept up the entire dorm til 2AM regularly, etc), but I managed to deal with them with minor mishap throughout the year. The trick is to only deal with them when you HAVE to, and merely remain cordialwhen you meet otherwise. If you have problems with them, wait until they are dead sober to talk to them, as I found out the hard way that arguing with a drunk does nothing.
Get sleep whenever you can. Sleep begees a precious gemodity when you are in college, and staying up latelistening to music does not prepare you properly for your class the next day! So, if your roommates are keeping you up, make sure to haveearplugs and eyemask on hand! (This has saved me several nights of agony.)
Find public places to hide. If you do not like your roommates (which is gemon), make sure you know a student lounge, library study room, orquiet park where you can go to destress and study.You might even make a friend who's trying to escapehis or her crazy roommates, too!
Do not be pressured into drinking. EVER. While it may seem that all of your graduating class is doing it, they really aren't. And if you DOdecide to go drinking (which isagainst all better judgement), make SURE to bring a buddy to keep an eye on you.People who have never drank before are more likely to drink too much and get sick and possibly die, so make sure to alternate your alcoholic drinks with water, and make sure to eat BEFORE yougo drinking. (Eating while you drink will do nothing, but having some food in your stomach helps the alcohol disperse A LITTLE.)Also, if you have to drive home, DO NOT DO SO DRUNK!!!EVER!! Even if you have to take a cab, or even if you have to stay at someone's house overnight,DO NOT DRIVE DRUNK!
Do not panic if your teachers are butts. I wasrecently advised that if you find five(5!) teachers that you like in your ENTIRE college career, you're lucky. So, be prepared to hate some of your teachers, andtry to put up with them for as long as you can if it is impossible to transfer out of their class.
Be aware of transfer and sign up dates for your classes! These seem easy toremember, but they're not, and they could turn out to be KEY to doing well!
Get involved! While you don't have to be in EVERY club, make sure to find something fun to do at your school, so that even if you miss home, you'll have something fun to do every weekon campus.
Don't get in over your head! Joining activities is great, but if you're in so many that they feel more like a chore, don't feel bad about dropping out! It'll make you feel a lot less stressed out.
When buying food for yourdorm, buy liters of soda and some cups instead of cans, as A) it's less trash to take out, and B) it's cheaper!
Try to pack your lunch, as it will A) save time incafeteria lines, and B)probably have less fat than a normal school lunch.
BuyGALLONSof water and twoquality bottles! While this seems silly, if you drink enough water during the day, it will help curb your appetite, keep you hydrated while walking to classes, and help stave off the Freshman 15!So, fill up both bottles and alternate,washing each bottle as it begees empty and needs a cleaning.
Find what stores are near campus. Make sure to find a bike/car repair shop, a grocery store, a post office, a police station (or the campus security station), the medical office for campus, and any restaurants that you like. If you can figure out where these are before class begins,you'll be in great shape!
Watch outfor crime! There IS a lot of crime on campus, so try not to walk alone after dark, and don't walk around with headphones onor talking into your cellphone. These activities mark you as distracted and an "easy mark"for pickpockets!
In conclusion, I'd like to say, even withall my guidelines and tips, your college experience will beuniqueto YOU, and there's no way to gepletely tellexactly what it will be like! However, if you feel that you are properly prepared and educated about what you might face, I hope that you will feel confident and stress-free as you enter the exciting world of college life.Thanksfor reading, and have an awesome time at college!!
This guide is going to be updated fairly often, so if you have something you think was omitted or that should be added (or even some errors!), please do nothesitate to send me a message though okay. :) Thanks!
(This guide was last updated: August 24th, end of first week of classes!)
Fakes and the Collector
HiIf your reading this, it's because you suspect a listing online. Are there fakes out there? Yes.How will you know? Read the listing very carfully and look for word gebinations like "I think this is a meteorite...", " It was found by my _____ and he was sure it was a meteorite", "It was reveled in a vision to be....". This can also be true of Tektites. Since tektites are a mineral glass, it's not too hard to whip up a similar mixture and cast them, however they do this. And just like the fake fossils, we will see more of them.Here's a site which discusses fake Moldavites:http://soul2soultreasures.ge/fake_moldavite.htmHere's an example of how fake fossils have invaded okay and how to recognize them:http://www.paleodirect.ge/fakefossils1.htmYour best defense is to know whom your buying from. Look for IMCA numbers and logos ( International Meteorite Collector's Association). Just remember some of the top dealers are not members and you will have to learn who they are, for they are some great people.Fakes aren't limited to fossil and meteorites. You most likely know about the watches and sunglasses, but check out this website for information on plates and then think about how many other items that could be faked in a similar manner:http://www.rscollect.co.uk/backstamp collection.htmEnjoy your hobby
From Greenware to Bisque - A delicate Stage
So now you are looking at a beautiful creation that was nothing more than clay and water only hours ago.
This is greenware - it is very delicate.
When it is first removed from the mold it should be "leather - hard".
You can gently pick and pull and rub out seems and many imperfections. You dont want to get to meticulous. It is easy to crush, dent or even tear greenware in this stage.
Now is the time to attach any extra pieces , such as arms or legs, etc...
I use an old paint brush for this. Dip it in the slip, put a liberal amount on both sides of the piece and gently hold the pieces together. It should only take about 5 seconds for the pieces to bond (longer for heavier pieces) .
When the pieces are joined, go around the seem with the brush again, just to make sure there are no gaps.
It may look a little sloppy, but don't worry, put it on a shelf and forget about it for a few days.
The greenware will lighten, both in color and weight over the next few days.When it is almost white, it is almost ready for the kiln.
Now, you can remove any remaining seems, bubbles or blights.
I highly regemend buying a few cleaning tools for this. You can do most of the "clean-up" with scouring pad style sticks. They are usually two-sided (brown-course and white-fine). There are also metal knife like tools. The one I use the most has astraight and a curved end for scraping off seems.
There are also many special tools for textures (such as doll's hair or fur). I have not really worked with these.
Here's a tip that may be helpful -When you think you are done, take a damp paper towel and wipe down the entire piece. This will remove all of the dust and help with any stubborn spots.
Next - Firing !!!
This is greenware - it is very delicate.
When it is first removed from the mold it should be "leather - hard".
You can gently pick and pull and rub out seems and many imperfections. You dont want to get to meticulous. It is easy to crush, dent or even tear greenware in this stage.
Now is the time to attach any extra pieces , such as arms or legs, etc...
I use an old paint brush for this. Dip it in the slip, put a liberal amount on both sides of the piece and gently hold the pieces together. It should only take about 5 seconds for the pieces to bond (longer for heavier pieces) .
When the pieces are joined, go around the seem with the brush again, just to make sure there are no gaps.
It may look a little sloppy, but don't worry, put it on a shelf and forget about it for a few days.
The greenware will lighten, both in color and weight over the next few days.When it is almost white, it is almost ready for the kiln.
Now, you can remove any remaining seems, bubbles or blights.
I highly regemend buying a few cleaning tools for this. You can do most of the "clean-up" with scouring pad style sticks. They are usually two-sided (brown-course and white-fine). There are also metal knife like tools. The one I use the most has astraight and a curved end for scraping off seems.
There are also many special tools for textures (such as doll's hair or fur). I have not really worked with these.
Here's a tip that may be helpful -When you think you are done, take a damp paper towel and wipe down the entire piece. This will remove all of the dust and help with any stubborn spots.
Next - Firing !!!
Hibiscus Seed Germinating Tips
Hibiscus Seed Germinating Tips
This genus of over 200 annual or perennial herbs, shrubs or trees in the mallow (Malvaceae) family is widely distributed throughout warm temperate, subtropical and tropical regions of the world. They are grown mostly for their large dramatic flowers, borne singly or in terminal clusters, usually lasting for just a day. The open bell-shaped flowers appear in a wide variety of colors, and are characterized by a prominent stamina column and a darker coloring in then center. The alternate simple leaves are usually palmate.
Cultivation
Sow seeds at a depth of in a well draining soil. Keep warm an provide bright light. Keep lightly moist not wet. Most species of Hibiscus are drought tender and rather frost tender, and prefer a position in full sun in a rich and moist soil. Many will tolerate hard pruning after flowering to maintain shape.
This genus of over 200 annual or perennial herbs, shrubs or trees in the mallow (Malvaceae) family is widely distributed throughout warm temperate, subtropical and tropical regions of the world. They are grown mostly for their large dramatic flowers, borne singly or in terminal clusters, usually lasting for just a day. The open bell-shaped flowers appear in a wide variety of colors, and are characterized by a prominent stamina column and a darker coloring in then center. The alternate simple leaves are usually palmate.
Cultivation
Sow seeds at a depth of in a well draining soil. Keep warm an provide bright light. Keep lightly moist not wet. Most species of Hibiscus are drought tender and rather frost tender, and prefer a position in full sun in a rich and moist soil. Many will tolerate hard pruning after flowering to maintain shape.
FLOATY PEN - A FUN AND AFFORDABLE COLLECTIBLE
A "floaty" or "tilt" pen is a fun and affordable collectible. My passion for collecting floaty pens started many years ago while vacationing, and this was an affordable souvenir for me to get. Some of the places I have collected floaty pens from are no longer in existence, so the pens have a historical as well as nostalgic importance. The upper half of a floaty pen has a clear plastic oil filled section with a floating image against a background. The image "floats" when the pen is tilted back and forth. The bottom half of the pen (the "barrel") is made of colorful plastic, and you can actually write with it.History: A Danish baker by the name of Peder Eskesen is known as the founder of floaty pens. In the 1940s, he perfected a way of sealing the oil which is in the upper half of the floaty pen. The Eskesen gepany makes most of the floaty pens found in the world today. New designs are always being produced, so discontinued vintage pens/designs are sought after by collectors. When buying a floaty pen, whether vintage or new, tilt the pen back and forth to see if the float moves freely. Check to see if there are any bubbles or streaks when the pen is tilted. Also check the barrel part to see if it is free from scratches, ink, or other markings. If you don't have access to the pen, make sure the description states the condition of the barrel and the float.Floaty pens can be found in every state and in almost every country. A fun, interesting and affordable collectible.
Mudman Plus Too
I was recently asked why I feel as I do on dating mudmen. I'm not a writer, as you can see from my Mudman Plus article, but I try,so bare with me. I grew up in the old Panama Canal Zone, early fifties to mid-sixties. Panama City was across the border with all these wonderful shops filled with items from around the world. Asian items in particular. My dear Aunt took great advantage of this to form her wonderful collection of mudmen.She bought new, and they were marked CHINA. Only CHINA. Military there (and worldwide) and travelers alike have brought thousands of mudmen to our country. When a friend sees my collection they often ge- ment on some relative receiving one as a gift from someone overseas. They were dirt cheap, small, easy to carry or mail, and always appreciated. There is something endearing about them. Wonderful for that aquarium , or my aunt's wall shelf. India and China were not ones to follow the export/import laws on dating and marking goods. As a mudman collector I imagine that you go to flea markets and antique stores.Ever notice some tiny brass shoes that are ashtrays? The pointed ones said INDIA, and the rounded toe was marked CHINA. No MADE IN.. These gee from the forties and fifties. Everyone smoked. Plus it was cheap, easy to carry, etc. No way are they antique,vintage yes! Buying or selling one prefers to have an antique. There are antique ones out there, but very few.I find nothing wrong with the vintage. I am near sixty, and have loved mudmen since I was about sixteen. I've seen about two dozen with the Chinese script inside.And maybe three dozen unmarked antique ones over time. They do exist. One other issue or beef. The hands, legs, and facedo have a glaze. It's a soft, thin satin finish gepared to the heavy glossy overall glaze. Look at your mudmen closely .. it's there. It is a wonderful protective coating. They would be dirty and stained if not for this glaze. And yet most consider these areas to be unglazed. Sadlywith every earthquake, flood, hurricane,or fire there are fewer mudmen. Last.... beware of reproductions. Good hunting to you all.
How do I choose the number of buttons on my tuxedo?
Traditional style tuxedos are typically manufactured with a 1 or 2 button front. These jackets have been regemended in the industry for many years and never seems to be phased out by the manufacturers. Highly regemended for a shorter gentleman. To achieve a more contemporary look you can opt for a style with a 3 to 6 button front. Here you will find the lapels are shortened down the front of the jacket to leave room for the extra buttons. These jackets are regemended for taller gentlemen with a thinner build. Keep in mind, jackets with 3 to 6 buttons can be found on many tuxedos today, however, they may not be very popular in the years to gee. If you plan on investing in a tuxedo with many years of use, we suggest opting for a style with either the 1 or 2 button closure.
Quickutz, Accucut, Sizzix die cuts
Die cuts are a great way to do your card making or scrapbooking projects. They are cuts made from metal or wooden dies such as Quickutz, Sizzix, or Accucut. When searching for embellishments for a project, do a search for die cuts and you will find a wonderful selection. These are also cheaper than buying the actual die itself. I know some rare dies can go up to 100.00 each. That's great if you are a collector. Sellers will usually sell a lot of die cuts and let you pick the colors. It wouldn't hurt to take a look and see what is out there to help along with your projects.
How to Clean the Oil from a New Helmet, Armor, or Sword
Helmets, armor, and some swords will often gee coated in oil when you recieve it in the mail. The oil helps to prevent rust and tarnishing while shipping the item. This is a good way to protect item when not in use, but you don't want to get oil all over you when you are using it.
How to clean off the oil
The best way to remove this oil is using lacquer thinner to clean it off then letting it air dry. You can then test it with a cotton cloth to see if you've gotten off all of the oil. You are now ready to use your item!
Storing your item
Since helmets, armor, and swords that arenot made from stainless steel are prone to rust, it is regemend that you recoat the item if you are going to store it for any extended amount of time. A coat of WD-40 should work well. There are also sword oils which you can buy that work for longer because they are made to not dry out like WD-40 does after a while.
How to clean off the oil
The best way to remove this oil is using lacquer thinner to clean it off then letting it air dry. You can then test it with a cotton cloth to see if you've gotten off all of the oil. You are now ready to use your item!
Storing your item
Since helmets, armor, and swords that arenot made from stainless steel are prone to rust, it is regemend that you recoat the item if you are going to store it for any extended amount of time. A coat of WD-40 should work well. There are also sword oils which you can buy that work for longer because they are made to not dry out like WD-40 does after a while.
How To Make A Payment Using BidPay - Old Format
Bidpay is no longer available.Simply send a payment using Bidpay using a MasterCard or Visa Card.Safe Secure
Hollywood hair!
I am on my forth bottle of Chazs' perfect product, and my hair looks, feels and behaves perfectly EVERYDAY! I kid you not! You know how great your hair feels when you leave a good salon? Wen products will give your hairthat great feeling everyday. I like to call it my Hollywood Hair...cause everyone in Hollywood seems to have long HEALTHY hair...and now so do I! Thanks Chaz...thanks Helen! I WILL NEVER USEDETERGENTS AGAIN...NEVER!!!
Old Bottles
Want to discover the great hobby-sport of bottle digging and collecting? I began digging at the age of around 12, when my father brought home a local medicine bottle (Dill's Cough Syrup, Norristown Pa) which he found when digging a fence post at his office. I was hooked, and began riding my bike to look for dump sites and there it began. Now, continuing this hobby which will last a lifetime, I dig at least once a week for old bottles and sell some of what I find and keep some. I do some trading as well. Old bottle digging and collecting can offer a joy for all ages and budgets. Buy the best you can for themoney you have, and by all means, choose a bottle(s) based on your preference. We all have different likes. From the window bottle collector to the fruit jar, bitters bottle, flask collector, enjoy yourself. This is the #1 reason for the hobby.
Pam-Bottlecindy
Pam-Bottlecindy
Projector Brand Selection and Warranty Considerations
When choosing which brand of multimedia projectorto purchase one of the important considerations is the warranty offered by the individual manufacturers. Each brand will offer varying terms of the warranty. Here are the most gemon offering to look for when selecting your projector brand.
Warranty Considerations
Repair or Replace Warranty-This is one of the best warranties and is offered by several manufacturers. Simply put, if your LCD or DLP projector is not working, an A/V technician will try to offer a solution or repair the projector over the phone. Once the audio-visual technician determines what needs to be done, the technician will gee to your business or home to fix it. If the technician cannot fix the projector, the manufacturer will replace the projector with a new one.
Return to Base Warranty-This type of projector warranty is the most basic warranty sa well as the most gemon. The way it works is if the data projector is not working, you have to pack it up and return it to the manufacturer. The manufacturer will repair the data projector and send it back to you. The average repair time is 2-3 weeks. You could be looking at a longer wait because the repair parts might be on backorder.
Swap-Out Warranty-The Swap-Out Warranty is probably the best type of projector warranty, but is rare. With this warranty, if your digital projector is in need of repair, a technician will first determine the problem over the phone. Next, you can send the digital projectorto the manufacturer to fix and at the same time, they will send you a loaner projector to use while yours is being repaired. You usually receive the loaner projector the next business day. The loaner projector is typically a used projector, but it will work well until you get your projector repaired. Obviously, once you get your original digital projector back from the manufacturer, you are responsible for returning the loaner projector.
Dead on Arrival Warranty-Several projector manufacturers offer a projector warranty protecting you if you plug in your new multimedia projectorand it does not work. Purchasing a projector that doesn't work when you get it is rare, but it does occasionally happen. With the Dead On Arrival Warranty, you simply return the non-working projector and the manufacturer will rush another new model multimedia projector to you.
Projector Lamp Warranty- Lamp warranties range from 30 days to 6 months. If you are putting your digital projector into a rigorous enviroment, it may be worthwhile to find a projector with a better projector lampwarranty. Some very inexpensive projectorsgee with lamp warranties that can be as little as 30 days. Look at this carefully when choosing a digital projector, because the immediate savings may result in a hefty repair cost down the road.
Please read our other guides including our Why Choose LCD, DLP, or LCOS Technology:
http://reviews.okay.ge/LCD-DLP-and-LCOS-Projector-Selector-Guide_W0QQugidZ10000000001443008
And Brightness (Lumens) and Weight considerations when choosing your projector:
http://reviews.okay.ge/Projector-Selector-for-Brightness-Lumens-and-Weight_W0QQugidZ10000000001443283
Warranty Considerations
Repair or Replace Warranty-This is one of the best warranties and is offered by several manufacturers. Simply put, if your LCD or DLP projector is not working, an A/V technician will try to offer a solution or repair the projector over the phone. Once the audio-visual technician determines what needs to be done, the technician will gee to your business or home to fix it. If the technician cannot fix the projector, the manufacturer will replace the projector with a new one.
Return to Base Warranty-This type of projector warranty is the most basic warranty sa well as the most gemon. The way it works is if the data projector is not working, you have to pack it up and return it to the manufacturer. The manufacturer will repair the data projector and send it back to you. The average repair time is 2-3 weeks. You could be looking at a longer wait because the repair parts might be on backorder.
Swap-Out Warranty-The Swap-Out Warranty is probably the best type of projector warranty, but is rare. With this warranty, if your digital projector is in need of repair, a technician will first determine the problem over the phone. Next, you can send the digital projectorto the manufacturer to fix and at the same time, they will send you a loaner projector to use while yours is being repaired. You usually receive the loaner projector the next business day. The loaner projector is typically a used projector, but it will work well until you get your projector repaired. Obviously, once you get your original digital projector back from the manufacturer, you are responsible for returning the loaner projector.
Dead on Arrival Warranty-Several projector manufacturers offer a projector warranty protecting you if you plug in your new multimedia projectorand it does not work. Purchasing a projector that doesn't work when you get it is rare, but it does occasionally happen. With the Dead On Arrival Warranty, you simply return the non-working projector and the manufacturer will rush another new model multimedia projector to you.
Projector Lamp Warranty- Lamp warranties range from 30 days to 6 months. If you are putting your digital projector into a rigorous enviroment, it may be worthwhile to find a projector with a better projector lampwarranty. Some very inexpensive projectorsgee with lamp warranties that can be as little as 30 days. Look at this carefully when choosing a digital projector, because the immediate savings may result in a hefty repair cost down the road.
Please read our other guides including our Why Choose LCD, DLP, or LCOS Technology:
http://reviews.okay.ge/LCD-DLP-and-LCOS-Projector-Selector-Guide_W0QQugidZ10000000001443008
And Brightness (Lumens) and Weight considerations when choosing your projector:
http://reviews.okay.ge/Projector-Selector-for-Brightness-Lumens-and-Weight_W0QQugidZ10000000001443283
How To "PRICE" a Card, Mech, or ALMOST ANYTHING on s
We run a Gaming/Hobby store and have customers gee in every day selling items. They often ask how THEY can price their items. Many gaming/hobby stores use Becketts and Scrye magazines to price cards, but okay prices are "REALITY". NOTE: This method of 'pricing' items can be used for almost anything you sell on okay.
First look at the card or item for identifying numbers. A card number or piece number will usually be all you need for a Yu-Gi-Oh card. For Pokemon, Inuyasha, Naruto, DBZ, and many other cards and miniatures, the item name, along with it's number, are what you need. Go to ANY okay page and enter the card number and/or name in the TOP RIGHT search box. Enter your info and click SEARCH. If items gee up, scroll down the page and look on the left side. Click the gePLETED ITEMS box, then click the search box below it. If your card or item gees up, look at the SOLD item prices. Take into consideration the shipping cost (if noted) and the location of the seller. Foreign items are usually printed in italics. When pricing an item in the US, use prices from US sellers. NEVER use the price of 'UNSOLD' items in figuring the value of an item.
If nothing showed up in your search of running or gepleted items, check your spelling first. If the spelling is OK, then eliminate some of the entry. For example: If you entered "Bat Sentry 097', try just entering 'Bat Sentry'. LESS is ALWAYS BETTER!! That means if you want the price of a 1990 Superman geic from DC and it features supervillain Joker, try just entering Superman. Nowlook on the left in the categories and click on the geics. Once you have those, add theyear 1990. You will likely get alot of hits. So you can add the word Joker and click on the small box below the LEFT search line that says to 'Search Titles and Descriptions'. Likely you have too much info, as most sellers don't give details on the contents (I said most, a few will).
For Yu-Gi-Oh cards, I highly suggest you enter JUST THE CARD NUMBER. If you enter the card name, you will not only get the ones you are looking for, but every re-print, language, grab bag auction, and 'collection' sale that's out there. The card number is on the right side just below the picture. It is NOT the long number on the bottom of the card on the left side.Make sure you enter the entire card number: letters, dash, and numbers.
Note: We usually throw out the highest sale price and the lowest sale price. What you have left is a realistic value of the item you have 'priced'.
Good luck in finding your 'prices'!!
First look at the card or item for identifying numbers. A card number or piece number will usually be all you need for a Yu-Gi-Oh card. For Pokemon, Inuyasha, Naruto, DBZ, and many other cards and miniatures, the item name, along with it's number, are what you need. Go to ANY okay page and enter the card number and/or name in the TOP RIGHT search box. Enter your info and click SEARCH. If items gee up, scroll down the page and look on the left side. Click the gePLETED ITEMS box, then click the search box below it. If your card or item gees up, look at the SOLD item prices. Take into consideration the shipping cost (if noted) and the location of the seller. Foreign items are usually printed in italics. When pricing an item in the US, use prices from US sellers. NEVER use the price of 'UNSOLD' items in figuring the value of an item.
If nothing showed up in your search of running or gepleted items, check your spelling first. If the spelling is OK, then eliminate some of the entry. For example: If you entered "Bat Sentry 097', try just entering 'Bat Sentry'. LESS is ALWAYS BETTER!! That means if you want the price of a 1990 Superman geic from DC and it features supervillain Joker, try just entering Superman. Nowlook on the left in the categories and click on the geics. Once you have those, add theyear 1990. You will likely get alot of hits. So you can add the word Joker and click on the small box below the LEFT search line that says to 'Search Titles and Descriptions'. Likely you have too much info, as most sellers don't give details on the contents (I said most, a few will).
For Yu-Gi-Oh cards, I highly suggest you enter JUST THE CARD NUMBER. If you enter the card name, you will not only get the ones you are looking for, but every re-print, language, grab bag auction, and 'collection' sale that's out there. The card number is on the right side just below the picture. It is NOT the long number on the bottom of the card on the left side.Make sure you enter the entire card number: letters, dash, and numbers.
Note: We usually throw out the highest sale price and the lowest sale price. What you have left is a realistic value of the item you have 'priced'.
Good luck in finding your 'prices'!!
BUYING COPPER SINKS
One of the hottest decorating items for people's homes are decorative copper sinks. They can be used a lav sinks, bar sinks, and prep sinks. They are available in a myriad of colors and some are even available in two color designs.
The thing that makes these sinks interesting to the okay buyer is that they can be custom designed by color and in some instances the customer can pick a two color design perfect for THEIR home decor.
Unlike the copper sinks of old, these are impervious to turning green due to a process where the color(referred to as a patina) is baked on and then covered and rebaked with a matte, eggshell, or gloss finish. The customer has choices on rim styles from flat to acgeodate undermount or drop in, rounded rim for strictly a drop in styles, and as a vessel for above the counter installation.
Consequently the sink can be custom designed to fit every need the customer has. Unlike the traditional Mexican hand hammered sinks the one's geing from China have thousands of years of artisanship behind them. The quality is top notch and in most cases custom designs and colors can be delivered within 2 weeks.
If you're doing a remodel of the bathroom, bar area, or kitchen sink area in your home gee take a look at the vivid selection of colors and styles. Also available is a full catalogue of the entire collection, write and ask for it.
Visit my store at stores.okay.ge/sink-or-swim, or go to metro5585 click on a sink and then click on tosee my store
Good luck and happy shopping, hope to hear from you soon!
The thing that makes these sinks interesting to the okay buyer is that they can be custom designed by color and in some instances the customer can pick a two color design perfect for THEIR home decor.
Unlike the copper sinks of old, these are impervious to turning green due to a process where the color(referred to as a patina) is baked on and then covered and rebaked with a matte, eggshell, or gloss finish. The customer has choices on rim styles from flat to acgeodate undermount or drop in, rounded rim for strictly a drop in styles, and as a vessel for above the counter installation.
Consequently the sink can be custom designed to fit every need the customer has. Unlike the traditional Mexican hand hammered sinks the one's geing from China have thousands of years of artisanship behind them. The quality is top notch and in most cases custom designs and colors can be delivered within 2 weeks.
If you're doing a remodel of the bathroom, bar area, or kitchen sink area in your home gee take a look at the vivid selection of colors and styles. Also available is a full catalogue of the entire collection, write and ask for it.
Visit my store at stores.okay.ge/sink-or-swim, or go to metro5585 click on a sink and then click on tosee my store
Good luck and happy shopping, hope to hear from you soon!
Jewelry Buying Guide
Diamond Jewelry
Cut
Cut is divided into Shape, Proportion, Polish, and Symmetry. Shape, Proportions, and facet placement, are all of great importance when cutting a diamond to its most brilliant appearance. Symmetry can describe both length to width ratio and also depth percentages. This can have the greatest effect on how a diamond shines. The Polish is how well light enters and exits the facets of the diamond. The cleaner, or more polished a facet is, the more light that will enter a diamond.
Color
Traditionally, color in a diamond is graded based on the lack of color in the diamond. The hues graded in white diamonds are actually faint tones of yellow, brown, and grays. Listed below are the color grades used to evaluate diamond color. An alphabetical scale starting at D is used to evaluate the color.
D, E, F= Colorless
G, H, I= Near Colorless
J-K= Faint Color
L-R= Noticeable Color
SZ= Obvious Color
Fancy Color - Once the color drops below the range of the scale (Z), or has a gepletely different hue than yellow, brown, or gray, it then begees a Fancy Color diamond. Fancy colors are graded on how much color and how strong it is. Diamonds gee in every color of the rainbow including blue, pink, and yellow, purple, black and many more. In general, fancy colored diamonds are rarer than colorless diamonds.
Clarity
Clarity is the grade that describes the inclusions and blemishes of the diamond. The fewer inclusions and blemishes a diamond has, the more valuable it is. Clarity can also have a direct impact on how much brilliance a stone has. If there are too many inclusions or they are in certain places of the diamond, the inclusions can block the light from reflecting and diminish the beauty of the diamond.
The following clarity grades are listed from highest to lowest:
Flawless (FL) - These show no inclusions or blemishes of any kind inside or outside of the diamond.
Internally Flawless (IF) - Internally flawless diamonds do not have internal inclusions but can have some external blemishes, such as a miniscule scratch.
Very Very Slightly Included (VVS1
Cut
Cut is divided into Shape, Proportion, Polish, and Symmetry. Shape, Proportions, and facet placement, are all of great importance when cutting a diamond to its most brilliant appearance. Symmetry can describe both length to width ratio and also depth percentages. This can have the greatest effect on how a diamond shines. The Polish is how well light enters and exits the facets of the diamond. The cleaner, or more polished a facet is, the more light that will enter a diamond.
Color
Traditionally, color in a diamond is graded based on the lack of color in the diamond. The hues graded in white diamonds are actually faint tones of yellow, brown, and grays. Listed below are the color grades used to evaluate diamond color. An alphabetical scale starting at D is used to evaluate the color.
D, E, F= Colorless
G, H, I= Near Colorless
J-K= Faint Color
L-R= Noticeable Color
SZ= Obvious Color
Fancy Color - Once the color drops below the range of the scale (Z), or has a gepletely different hue than yellow, brown, or gray, it then begees a Fancy Color diamond. Fancy colors are graded on how much color and how strong it is. Diamonds gee in every color of the rainbow including blue, pink, and yellow, purple, black and many more. In general, fancy colored diamonds are rarer than colorless diamonds.
Clarity
Clarity is the grade that describes the inclusions and blemishes of the diamond. The fewer inclusions and blemishes a diamond has, the more valuable it is. Clarity can also have a direct impact on how much brilliance a stone has. If there are too many inclusions or they are in certain places of the diamond, the inclusions can block the light from reflecting and diminish the beauty of the diamond.
The following clarity grades are listed from highest to lowest:
Flawless (FL) - These show no inclusions or blemishes of any kind inside or outside of the diamond.
Internally Flawless (IF) - Internally flawless diamonds do not have internal inclusions but can have some external blemishes, such as a miniscule scratch.
Very Very Slightly Included (VVS1
Monday, September 26, 2011
s /Paypal 36% Coupon Code september 2011 purchase uk
Coupon for okay August 2011 and foreverI just found a great way to save off my okay purchases inseptember 2011! okay has recently hired Bigcrumbs to promote sales during the recession. Each time you win an okay auction, you get refunded 36% of the seller's fees (including insertion and final value fees). You can also use this unlimited this.This is just like the Bing.ge cashback program (which is no longer available) but even better.Below is the link to the information page (just cut and paste it into your browser): http://home.bigcrumbs.ge/lucky3938
DeWALT Items NOT available from "Authorized" Sellers?
Starting April 1st 2009, DeWALT no longer allows it's authorized vendors to sell DeWALT product on okay or any other 3rd party platform (such as Amazon, Overstock, Buy, etc.)DeWALT/ Porter Cable/ Delta brands are all owned by Black and Decker and are known as IPG (Industrial Products Group). According to IPG, okay, Amazon, and other 3rd party sites have emerged in the last few years as being major power players in the egemerce landscape. These sites are generally easy for anyone to sell products on which helps their appeal as popular places to go for a wide variety of products.There is no process on any of these sites to make sure that the seller of the products are authorized by the manufacturer to sell these products. Therefore, authorized and un-authorized sellers sell alongside each other.IPG feels that the abundance of it's products being offered on the sites by various authorized and un-authorized sellers gepromises it's brand image as well as it's pricing structure. According to IPG: "Most Un-Authorized Sellers Violate IPG's IP (Internet Policy)
AMAZING DEVATA: GIFTS FROM THE SPIRITUAL REALM
DEVATAS
Devatas represent a faculty of higher consciousness. Different devatasrule different dimensions. Each displaying different gifts or powers. Devatasare infinite and universal.
Devatas are the equivalent of guardian spirits. There are many kinds of devatas each with different areas of expertise.
Devatas are personal spiritual beings. The bond between humans and Devata bring aboutmaterial, emotional, intellectual and spiritual fulfillment.
Devatas gain power and strength only through a close relationship with humans. As the human respects the power of the Devata, her power grows. She then uses this to bring about overall well being to the human. Thus, the relationship between human and Devata is mutally beneficial.
Devatas are not necessarily wish granting entities as Djinn are, but the end results are the same. When you have a close relationship with a Devata, you will see your wants and desires manifest fully. This is the way in which they advance, by fullfilling your needs.
They immediately dispel negativity and bring about positive change in the lives of anyone they touch.
Devatas from Moonstar7spirits are never unethically bound. As a matter of fact, it is impossible to bind a Devata against her will. Devatas gee forward to be bound to a physical item such as a pendant or ring, as this is the only way in which they can remain in the physical realm. They WANT to be here as their main purpose is to help people.
I have been offering Devatas for almost 2 years. They have changed the lives of many people and are continuing to do so.
Welgee a Devata into your life today! You will never regret your decision.
Devatas represent a faculty of higher consciousness. Different devatasrule different dimensions. Each displaying different gifts or powers. Devatasare infinite and universal.
Devatas are the equivalent of guardian spirits. There are many kinds of devatas each with different areas of expertise.
Devatas are personal spiritual beings. The bond between humans and Devata bring aboutmaterial, emotional, intellectual and spiritual fulfillment.
Devatas gain power and strength only through a close relationship with humans. As the human respects the power of the Devata, her power grows. She then uses this to bring about overall well being to the human. Thus, the relationship between human and Devata is mutally beneficial.
Devatas are not necessarily wish granting entities as Djinn are, but the end results are the same. When you have a close relationship with a Devata, you will see your wants and desires manifest fully. This is the way in which they advance, by fullfilling your needs.
They immediately dispel negativity and bring about positive change in the lives of anyone they touch.
Devatas from Moonstar7spirits are never unethically bound. As a matter of fact, it is impossible to bind a Devata against her will. Devatas gee forward to be bound to a physical item such as a pendant or ring, as this is the only way in which they can remain in the physical realm. They WANT to be here as their main purpose is to help people.
I have been offering Devatas for almost 2 years. They have changed the lives of many people and are continuing to do so.
Welgee a Devata into your life today! You will never regret your decision.
Checking for authenticity on Babolat tennis rackets
Quick check list for authenticityHere are a couple quick ways to check for authenticity on Babolat tennis rackets! There have been some very poor quality duplicates floating around. This will help you verify that your racket is indeed genuine.Your Babolat racket will never gee with any holograms on the racket, or bag. Holograms have never been used by Babolat on any of their newer rackets. Especially with any Asian symbols on it! I found this picture online of what some of the copy rackets gee with. DO NOT BUY ANY RACKET THAT HAS THESE ON THEM!-Your racket should not gee with any card attached to the throat.-You should have a sticker right next to the barcode that displays the grip size. A lot of them do not have any grip size stickers at all!-Look for low quality paint jobs on the bag itself. Some bags you can tell are cheaply made. Babolat AeroPro Drive bags are leather and have a smooth finish to them. Pure Drive are a weather resistant material.-There should always be a grip size sticker on the handle of the racket as well-If you have any questions on if you purchased a questionable racket please contact me. I can help you find out!Thank you!
Full Frontal Nude Photos: Vintage pinup photographs
Email from okay Customer Support on March 5th, 2009
(...)Listings for artwork depicting nudity are allowed in the Art category, but *only* if all of the following conditions are met: - The seller must enter "Nudes" in the Item Specifics section of the Sell Your Item form (located in Part 2 of the form). - The item can't be sexually suggestive or described in a lascivious manner. - The listing doesn't contain more than two images of nudity. - The item is considered fine art or professional art (for example, vintage pin-up art and Renaissance-era paintings or sculptures such as works by Michelangelo and Raphael). -- Important --Vintage pin-up art and photographs (pre-1970) depicting full frontal nudity must follow the guidelines for general artwork described above. However, vintage pin-up art and photographs containing topless or suggestive images can also be listed in the following categories: - Collectibles
(...)Listings for artwork depicting nudity are allowed in the Art category, but *only* if all of the following conditions are met: - The seller must enter "Nudes" in the Item Specifics section of the Sell Your Item form (located in Part 2 of the form). - The item can't be sexually suggestive or described in a lascivious manner. - The listing doesn't contain more than two images of nudity. - The item is considered fine art or professional art (for example, vintage pin-up art and Renaissance-era paintings or sculptures such as works by Michelangelo and Raphael). -- Important --Vintage pin-up art and photographs (pre-1970) depicting full frontal nudity must follow the guidelines for general artwork described above. However, vintage pin-up art and photographs containing topless or suggestive images can also be listed in the following categories: - Collectibles
Naber Kid Dolls --The Mystery of the Grain
THE MYSTERY OF THE GRAIN Taken from the Naber Kids Newsletter January 1997 issueThe Wood grain of the parts, especially in the face distinguishes the Naber Kids from most other wooden dolls. While many doll makers preferred not to show the grain, Mr. Naber cherishes those line caused by the seasonal growth of the tree. He uses the pattern as part of his creation to enhance the expression. In early days of doll making, wooden doll faces were painted over covering while also protecting the wood surface. Most artists preferred ash, bass or birch; which is easy to carve. The grain of those trees is barely noticeable. The color is light. When H.P. Naber carved his first creation "Big Nuni" in 1970 in Alaska he picked a Washington yellow cedar fence post, not knowing what type of wood was most suitable for the carving. The grain of that type of wood is very intense. Soon he learned to use the grain pattern to his advantage. Would he have been a learned expert in the field, he never would have ventured into the world of Grain Mystery!Personal Opinion--For those of you that are lucky enough to have one doll a Naber Baby Eskimo called Ivan. The Wood Grain is soooo intense on his face and the lines are so pre-dominant that he looks like a little old man with a very wrinkled face. The wood grains curves on his face in such a way to look very much like natural weather beaten wrinkles. This doll is an extradonery piece of art. Kudos to the collectors out there that have Ivan.... P.S. I would like to add something about the grains on these dolls. Many people have seen a line on the back of the leg or arms going in a vertical position and are wondering what that is? It is the mold line that is formed when the limb gees out of the mold. Mostly you don't see a head mold line because the hair covers it and all the information on the doll is placed on the back of the neck so mostly that mold line is hidden. Also, if you see one date on your dolls neck and a different date on the limbs --(as much as 2 years) it's because Mr. Naber re-carves the limbs periodically and when the original kids came out they were created for 1001 days (almost 3 years) that is the difference. Thanks for reading my guide. Diane
When vintage photograph really means vintage
I've been selling, and buying, on okay for ten years, and selling full time for five. And mostly I sell vintage photographs from the Civil War to 1950. An d I have noticed a troubling trend of late. After viewing the listings under photo albums. CDVs, and tintypes, I often check "other vintage listings" and it appears that the majority of the items are actually recent copies of supposed vintage photographs. Now my question is simply, when is a copy of an old photo considered a vintage photograph? It would seem to me that a copy or reproduction or reprint or whatever one chooses to call it, it cannot, by any stretch of imagination, be vintage. It's new and a copy. Now the sellers of same do find clever ways of describing their product as a copy, thus avoiding the ire of okay. But it throws a shadow over those of us who list true vintage photographs. I start out every listings as "vintage, original", yet I continue to received inquiries as to whether my listing is an original, followed by an addendum that the buyer has been burned in the past. I think okay should bar these copies from a category which clearly calls for vintage photographs. make a separate place for the reprinters if they must, although I would assume that in such a case these reprinters would stop selling their copies. In any, case I am tired of browsing through countless pages of this junk in search of the genuine product.
BUYING "NEW OLD STOCK" TUBES, aka NOS VINTAGE TUBES
Here's a guide that helps buyers with the task of selecting and purchasing vintage vacuum tubes for high-end and vintage equipment, such as electric guitar amplifiers and audiophile power amps. The goal here is to help okayers better understand those cryptic data values and descriptions posted by sellers.When manufacturers such as RCA, GE, Telefunken, AEG, and Phillips, batch tested new vacuum tubes 40 or 50 years ago, they published a nominal or average value for a category of tubes which described that tube's electrical performance and characteristics. This published value, listed in tube service manuals, is called a bogey value.Makers of tube testers used this information to build and setup their equipment to reliably and accurately test tubes in accordance with the bogey value. The bogey was usually reported in micromhos (gm), the most gemon electrical circuit value used by manufacturers to report a general measurement of a tube's properties. So the question is: What does bogey value have to do with buying "new old stock," or NOS vintage vacuum tubes?Today, most buyers are looking for tubes described as "new old stock," or NOS; in other words, tubes that are old in age, but otherwise new. Thus, the acronym NOS is better understood. The gemon myth is that vintage vacuum tubes, stored away for decades in a mythical storehouse of neglected vintage equipment, are suddenly found by treasure hunters. In this mythical place of unused vintage tube stuff are found cartons and boxes filled with tubes which are new, never been used, never turned on, never lit up in a piece of equipment and are virgin, years later. Right!To be fair, every once in awhile true NOS vacuum tubes are in fact discovered and offered for sale, usually at high market prices determined by supply and demand principles.So what's the point? Most sellers, who call the vacuum tubes they sell "new old stock" tubes, are hoping that you will buy into that myth and buy their tubes just because they call them NOS! But how can anyone really claim to know the history of any tube that's 40 or 50 years old? Is it deceptive, possibly irresponsible, to use the term NOS to sell vintage tubes without test data to gepare with published bogey values?The Tube Tone Zone (TTTZ) also uses the terminology new old stock, and the NOS acronym. When TTTZ tests vacuum tubes and reports a measurement that is equal to or higher than its published bogey value, it may use NOS, or "new old stock," in the item listing description or headline. The key distinction, from a technical, internal circuitry standpoint, is that tubes found to be within a range of NEW characteristics, backed-up by tube tester data, are therefore considered NOS, "new old stock," at TTTZ, despite cosmetic appearances, labels, date codes and whether or not any history is known. These tubes can truly be called NOS because they meet or beat the published bogey value, the only valid and meaningful indicator available.RELIABLE TUBE TESTER DATA REVEALS A TUBE'S STATUS TODAY = FOR DIRECT gePARISON WITH VINTAGE BOGEY VALUES PUBLISHED YESTERDAYThis information helps buyers to make an informed buying decision. This information provides a definitive basis for evaluating the present condition of tubes they need.This information helps buyers to consider whether the selling price is affordable and within reason. What really matters in the life of a tube is whether or not it retains its electrical integrity when tested on certain recognized, laboratory grade vacuum tube analyzers that perform a full range of tests under the same or identical conditions used by the original manufacturers who published the bogey values in the first place. In the best possible scenario, by carefully reading a seller's listing description, a buyer should be assured that the required tube is within a range of newness, despite its old age, and that it will be suitable for use in expensive high-end and vintage equipment.Think bogey like in golf, as a way to remember this invaluable guideline next time you need to purchase vintage vacuum tubes for your precious gear.
Work in progress!
Work in progress! okay requires at least 100characters for a guide, and for some reason will not allow me to delete this guide, so I will be writing on a different subject. Please check back in the future!
TORPEDO HAMILTON SODA WATER BOTTLE SCHWEPPES GUIDE
TORPEDO SODA WATER BOTTLE GUIDE: I am hoping to give you a crash course on torpedo soda water bottles (bottles with pointy bottoms that will not stand up on their own).
*torpedo bottles are also called HAMILTON bottles (named after their inventor William Francis Hamilton). He was an Englishman who was granted patents in 1809 and 1814 for an ovate shaped bottle.
*torpedo bottles are also called: Hamilton bottles, pointy enders, ovates, egg bottles, ballast bottles,and; bombs. These bottles WILL NOT stand up on their own.
*torpedo bottles are ovate or egg shaped with a POINTY bottom; cylinder bottles have straight sides and a ROUNDED bottom. Cylinder bottles WILL NOT stand up on their own.
*torpedo bottles held DOUBLE or TRIPLECARBONATED SODA WATER(generally called club soda; definitely high pressured FIZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ)); cylinder bottles normally held GINGER ALE
*the shape of the bottle meant the bottle had to be laid on its side, keeping the contents in contact with the cork. This kept the cork wet and swelled and prevented loss of carbonation.Any airspace was at the side (which was now the top) of the bottle. If the bottle's bottom was flat, there would be an airspace between the top of the soda and the bottom of the cork. The cork could dry out just a wee bit and the carbonation would escape so no more fizzzzzzz in the soda!! Plus, this shape of bottle was physically much stronger than a flat bottomed bottle.
*it is generally accepted that JOSEPH SCHWEPPE was the inventor of soda water. He was a Swiss jeweller who started selling mineral water in Geneva in 1783. He moved to London in 1792 and used egg bottles from 1809 until the turn of the century. His earliest torpedo bottle was a pottery or stoneware bottle. These stone bottles are EXCEEDINGLY scarce, with less than a half dozen knownto be in existencetoday. I'm lucky to own one of them, shown below. Took me 35 years to find it!!!!!
*next was the PONTILED soda bottle which Schweppe used up to 1831; then came blown in the mold (non-pontiled or smooth base) bottles of which MILLIONS were made and distributed to almost every country in the world. A pontiled SCHWEPPES torpedo is shown below.
*torpedo bottles can be found made of both pottery and glass. Glass bottles are almost always in the standard and gemon greenish/aqua colours. But there are torpedos that were made in varying shades of amber, cobalt blue andemerald green. They are rare, beautiful and very EXPENSIVE!!
*special holders or stands were made for these bottles so they could be stood upright on dining room tables. Most of these holders are very ornate since they were from the Victorian period. Shown belowis a single bottle holder;holders also came that would hold 3, 4 and 6 bottles.
*this 1831 receipt shows "dozens" of stone bottles; yet less than 6 stone torpedo bottles exist today. WHERE ARE THE 6 OTHERS SHOWN IN THE 'DOZEN' NOTED ON THE RECEIPT???
*click on the ME link which you will find after my feeback number. There you can go to my two websites for more pictures and information about torpedo bottles.
*as you know, my okay user name is torpedobottleso you know what my passion is. Why not check out my website, learn a bit moreand then begee passionate yourself about torpedo bottles?
*so; the next time you drink a cold carbonated soda, think WAAAAAY back to it originally being held in a pointy ended torpedo bottle!!!
If you haveenjoyed reading thisguide and found it to be helpful, please click on the "Yes" button just below, soothers can continue to be helped by this guide.
Thanks so muchfor reading!And; if you have any questions about torpedo bottles, please don't hesitate to contact me. I'll help you out as best I can.
*torpedo bottles are also called HAMILTON bottles (named after their inventor William Francis Hamilton). He was an Englishman who was granted patents in 1809 and 1814 for an ovate shaped bottle.
*torpedo bottles are also called: Hamilton bottles, pointy enders, ovates, egg bottles, ballast bottles,and; bombs. These bottles WILL NOT stand up on their own.
*torpedo bottles are ovate or egg shaped with a POINTY bottom; cylinder bottles have straight sides and a ROUNDED bottom. Cylinder bottles WILL NOT stand up on their own.
*torpedo bottles held DOUBLE or TRIPLECARBONATED SODA WATER(generally called club soda; definitely high pressured FIZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ)); cylinder bottles normally held GINGER ALE
*the shape of the bottle meant the bottle had to be laid on its side, keeping the contents in contact with the cork. This kept the cork wet and swelled and prevented loss of carbonation.Any airspace was at the side (which was now the top) of the bottle. If the bottle's bottom was flat, there would be an airspace between the top of the soda and the bottom of the cork. The cork could dry out just a wee bit and the carbonation would escape so no more fizzzzzzz in the soda!! Plus, this shape of bottle was physically much stronger than a flat bottomed bottle.
*it is generally accepted that JOSEPH SCHWEPPE was the inventor of soda water. He was a Swiss jeweller who started selling mineral water in Geneva in 1783. He moved to London in 1792 and used egg bottles from 1809 until the turn of the century. His earliest torpedo bottle was a pottery or stoneware bottle. These stone bottles are EXCEEDINGLY scarce, with less than a half dozen knownto be in existencetoday. I'm lucky to own one of them, shown below. Took me 35 years to find it!!!!!
*next was the PONTILED soda bottle which Schweppe used up to 1831; then came blown in the mold (non-pontiled or smooth base) bottles of which MILLIONS were made and distributed to almost every country in the world. A pontiled SCHWEPPES torpedo is shown below.
*torpedo bottles can be found made of both pottery and glass. Glass bottles are almost always in the standard and gemon greenish/aqua colours. But there are torpedos that were made in varying shades of amber, cobalt blue andemerald green. They are rare, beautiful and very EXPENSIVE!!
*special holders or stands were made for these bottles so they could be stood upright on dining room tables. Most of these holders are very ornate since they were from the Victorian period. Shown belowis a single bottle holder;holders also came that would hold 3, 4 and 6 bottles.
*this 1831 receipt shows "dozens" of stone bottles; yet less than 6 stone torpedo bottles exist today. WHERE ARE THE 6 OTHERS SHOWN IN THE 'DOZEN' NOTED ON THE RECEIPT???
*click on the ME link which you will find after my feeback number. There you can go to my two websites for more pictures and information about torpedo bottles.
*as you know, my okay user name is torpedobottleso you know what my passion is. Why not check out my website, learn a bit moreand then begee passionate yourself about torpedo bottles?
*so; the next time you drink a cold carbonated soda, think WAAAAAY back to it originally being held in a pointy ended torpedo bottle!!!
If you haveenjoyed reading thisguide and found it to be helpful, please click on the "Yes" button just below, soothers can continue to be helped by this guide.
Thanks so muchfor reading!And; if you have any questions about torpedo bottles, please don't hesitate to contact me. I'll help you out as best I can.
About 2pcs, 4pcs, 6pcs and 8pcs Pillar Post Trims
Pillar Post Trimsare like a beam shining your house thatmakes your vehicle more outstand from others.The Pillar Posts are constructed using the highest grade stainless steel and are polished to a mirror finish to provide superior looks and durability.Our stainless steel Pillar Post Trims are available in 2 pieces, 4 pieces, 6 piecesor 8 piecesThe 2-piece and 4-piece set includes covers for the Pillar Posts between the two doors while the 6-piece set adds the rear window trim pieces. The 8-piece set includes everything in the 6-piece set and addsthe coverfor the the rearmost area of the vehicle or adds the cover for the very front area.You can always find one to fit your needs.
Please CLICK HERE for all pillar post products in US-Auto Parts Depot's Store!
Please CLICK HERE for all pillar post products in US-Auto Parts Depot's Store!
Salvatore Ferragamo Belt Guide Fake Vs Real part 1 of 3
I am writing this guide to help fellow okayers identify counterfeit Salvatore Ferragamo belts. I have noticed that counterfeiters from all over the world are producing better quality replicas by focusing their energies on the small details. With better replicas, okay deal seekers are now at a higher risk of buying a knock off. I am fully aware that this guide might get in the wrong hands, but am still publishing this guide because I wished there was some sort of reference for me to determine between real and fake Ferragamo belts. So insteadof telling you exactly what to look for, I have used pictures of authenitc and fake belts side by side that clearly show the shortgeings of the fakes; I will also give you pointers on where to look so you can see these shortgeings. I will not describe the details of the flaw.
Again, please use this guide as a reference only and not as a sole means of verifying the authenticity of goods. I take no responsibility on how you use this guide. This guide can not be referenced in any claim (of any sort).
If you like this guide, please vote for me. If you find any flaws please share them, if you like something please tell me, if you think I need to change something please tell me.
So lets get started :
1. Overview of all belt buckles being reviewed: In the above picture the buckle on top of the white bag is fake. The other three are real. Things to look for:
Front Side:
1. Tail of the "o" at the end of Ferragamo (look at the pictures see the details I am leaving out) (tail leaving the top = good || tail leaving in the middle of the "o" or at the bottom or the "o"= bad)2. Size of "__Ferragamo__" engraving with relation to the place and size of object ("__ " means empty space) 2a. It is always centered to the flat portion of the plate (look at the pictures see the details I am leaving out) 3. Look at which parts of the buckle are shinny (chrome finish) or dull (matte finish or brushed nickel finish)
Back Side:
1. Notice what is engraved on the top side of the teethflap (blank or engraving)2. Notice the type of teeth being used (square or pointy) (part the holds the buckle to the belt)3. Type of screw being used (this is not a big give away - minor detail)4. Serial numbers under teeth plate (not all belts have to have this, but the newer ones do)5. Type of pin (the part that holds the belt in the hole) being used (this is not a big give away - minor detail) (Different variations)6. Look at which parts of the buckle are shinny (chrome finish) or dull (matte finish or brushed nickel finish)
The next few pics are close ups.
First set is fake:
For the Real sets : Please view Part II of the guide to see the other bucklesPlease view Part III of the guide to see the belt straps being gepared
Again, please use this guide as a reference only and not as a sole means of verifying the authenticity of goods. I take no responsibility on how you use this guide. This guide can not be referenced in any claim (of any sort).
If you like this guide, please vote for me. If you find any flaws please share them, if you like something please tell me, if you think I need to change something please tell me.
So lets get started :
1. Overview of all belt buckles being reviewed: In the above picture the buckle on top of the white bag is fake. The other three are real. Things to look for:
Front Side:
1. Tail of the "o" at the end of Ferragamo (look at the pictures see the details I am leaving out) (tail leaving the top = good || tail leaving in the middle of the "o" or at the bottom or the "o"= bad)2. Size of "__Ferragamo__" engraving with relation to the place and size of object ("__ " means empty space) 2a. It is always centered to the flat portion of the plate (look at the pictures see the details I am leaving out) 3. Look at which parts of the buckle are shinny (chrome finish) or dull (matte finish or brushed nickel finish)
Back Side:
1. Notice what is engraved on the top side of the teethflap (blank or engraving)2. Notice the type of teeth being used (square or pointy) (part the holds the buckle to the belt)3. Type of screw being used (this is not a big give away - minor detail)4. Serial numbers under teeth plate (not all belts have to have this, but the newer ones do)5. Type of pin (the part that holds the belt in the hole) being used (this is not a big give away - minor detail) (Different variations)6. Look at which parts of the buckle are shinny (chrome finish) or dull (matte finish or brushed nickel finish)
The next few pics are close ups.
First set is fake:
For the Real sets : Please view Part II of the guide to see the other bucklesPlease view Part III of the guide to see the belt straps being gepared
"A Collector's Report on Hernando Arrowhead Typology"
"A Collector's Report on Hernando Arrowhead Typology"
-for KD
Suggested Florida Cultural Chain: Culbreath, Citrus geplex (including Hernando), Pinellas, etc.
I. Definition
Hernando points were named by Ripley P. Bullen in 1968 for Hernando County, Florida. Theyare included in his guide titled, "AGuide to the Identification of Florida Projectile Points." They are defined as being a fairly thin, well made, small to medium sized, predominantly straight sided, basally notched (U-shaped notches), narrow, isosceles trianguloid point. While blade edges tend to be straight, they may be slightly excurvate or incurvate. Occasionaly (10 to 15 per cent) weak serrations are present. Bullen also describes three subtypes. In subtype 2, the more gemon variety, basal notching is evenly done and the basal edge divided into three nearly equal parts by two nearly equal notches. Subtype 1 is similar except that the basal corners have not been rounded. Sometimes, as in subtype 3, the central "tang" is small and does not extend downwardas far as the basal corners. It has been reported by Mr. Son Anderson that early examples are made better. He notes that they are thinner and more definite in outline. Mr. Anderson also reports that an un-notched form of Hernando usually medium to large in size is occasionally found with notched varieties. I have observed this un-notched blade form myself which is also notable for being thin. Additionaly, I have also encountereda thin to very thin, very well made, medium to large size, broad blade "micro" notched variety that is rare.
Bullen notes that Citrus points are associated with Hernando points and may be the knife form of the same geplex. He also notes thatbasal notching sets off Hernando from allother Florida points except Citrus.
II. Range
Bullen stated that, "Hernando points, while found throughout most of Florida, seem to beconcentrated near the Gulf coast north of St. Petersburg.
III. Time Period
Bullen stated that, "Hernando points appear to correlate (in time) with Perico Island, Deptford, Swift Creek, Belle GladeIA and St. John's IA Periods." These are generally considered to be Early Woodland cultures. The Early Woodland cultural time period is generally believed to have manifested itself in Floridano earlier then 2,500 years ago. This means that the human beings who made Hernando points also made some of North America's first pottery.
IV. Concluding Thought
Please, note that it seems that there exists significant bias in the grading of Hernando points created by a need for symmetry among collectors. As previously written in this report Bullen names three subtypes. Subtype 1 points are generally considered to be the most desirable and are rare. They are as a rule made better, thinner, more definite in outline and symmetrical. They also maygemand a significant premium over the other subtypes. This means that anobjective grader cannot use the same criteria in grading a subtype 3 as a subtype 1. A preconceived notion exists that if the base of a particular point is not the same length as or at a right angle to it's barbs that it is not intact but broken. Dr. Ripley Bullen stated that, "Projectile points were made by human hands, not machines, and there is always the problem of intermediate types." Obviously, Hernando points were made by human hands. Due to the difficulty in notching such a small fine point type a significant amount ofvariability is observed within the depth of notches the length of resultant barbs and the shape of newly created bases. The primary factors seemingly producing thisvariability being the skill of the tool maker (knapper) and the hardness of the stone being flaked. This may lead one to believe that an asymmetric base is in of itself not proof positive of a broken or spent point but oftentimes merely a result of maufacturing technique.
-*If you have found this guide helpful pleasecheck the box marked "yes" below!
Thank you and
"Enjoy collecting, floridagempoints!"
-for KD
Suggested Florida Cultural Chain: Culbreath, Citrus geplex (including Hernando), Pinellas, etc.
I. Definition
Hernando points were named by Ripley P. Bullen in 1968 for Hernando County, Florida. Theyare included in his guide titled, "AGuide to the Identification of Florida Projectile Points." They are defined as being a fairly thin, well made, small to medium sized, predominantly straight sided, basally notched (U-shaped notches), narrow, isosceles trianguloid point. While blade edges tend to be straight, they may be slightly excurvate or incurvate. Occasionaly (10 to 15 per cent) weak serrations are present. Bullen also describes three subtypes. In subtype 2, the more gemon variety, basal notching is evenly done and the basal edge divided into three nearly equal parts by two nearly equal notches. Subtype 1 is similar except that the basal corners have not been rounded. Sometimes, as in subtype 3, the central "tang" is small and does not extend downwardas far as the basal corners. It has been reported by Mr. Son Anderson that early examples are made better. He notes that they are thinner and more definite in outline. Mr. Anderson also reports that an un-notched form of Hernando usually medium to large in size is occasionally found with notched varieties. I have observed this un-notched blade form myself which is also notable for being thin. Additionaly, I have also encountereda thin to very thin, very well made, medium to large size, broad blade "micro" notched variety that is rare.
Bullen notes that Citrus points are associated with Hernando points and may be the knife form of the same geplex. He also notes thatbasal notching sets off Hernando from allother Florida points except Citrus.
II. Range
Bullen stated that, "Hernando points, while found throughout most of Florida, seem to beconcentrated near the Gulf coast north of St. Petersburg.
III. Time Period
Bullen stated that, "Hernando points appear to correlate (in time) with Perico Island, Deptford, Swift Creek, Belle GladeIA and St. John's IA Periods." These are generally considered to be Early Woodland cultures. The Early Woodland cultural time period is generally believed to have manifested itself in Floridano earlier then 2,500 years ago. This means that the human beings who made Hernando points also made some of North America's first pottery.
IV. Concluding Thought
Please, note that it seems that there exists significant bias in the grading of Hernando points created by a need for symmetry among collectors. As previously written in this report Bullen names three subtypes. Subtype 1 points are generally considered to be the most desirable and are rare. They are as a rule made better, thinner, more definite in outline and symmetrical. They also maygemand a significant premium over the other subtypes. This means that anobjective grader cannot use the same criteria in grading a subtype 3 as a subtype 1. A preconceived notion exists that if the base of a particular point is not the same length as or at a right angle to it's barbs that it is not intact but broken. Dr. Ripley Bullen stated that, "Projectile points were made by human hands, not machines, and there is always the problem of intermediate types." Obviously, Hernando points were made by human hands. Due to the difficulty in notching such a small fine point type a significant amount ofvariability is observed within the depth of notches the length of resultant barbs and the shape of newly created bases. The primary factors seemingly producing thisvariability being the skill of the tool maker (knapper) and the hardness of the stone being flaked. This may lead one to believe that an asymmetric base is in of itself not proof positive of a broken or spent point but oftentimes merely a result of maufacturing technique.
-*If you have found this guide helpful pleasecheck the box marked "yes" below!
Thank you and
"Enjoy collecting, floridagempoints!"
Overpaying for reloading equipment
I'm a hoarder and gatherer when it gees to reloading supplies. I'm amazed at the prices people are willing to pay for some equipment. I see peoplebidding more for used molds and die sets than the same thing sells for new at reloading catalog web sites and often times dealer showrooms. I can understand if you find a rare or discontinued item but why would someone pay $30 for a set of used Lee dies when new ones are out there around $20 with the manufacturers warranty? Double cavity Lee molds can be had for $18 yet I see used ones sold here for more than $25. Six cavity Lee molds can be had for $32 but people frequently bid them up to $45. I just saw a bag of lead shot that was bid from the99 starting price to over double the retail price of the same lead shot at my local gun store. Its lead shot...not magic fairy dust from some far away galaxy. I'm not faulting the sellers. Start your auctions where ever you want to and enjoy every penny that you make over and above retail. Apparently bidders are willing to pay premium prices for used stuff. I'm suggesting doing some research before you buy. What a manufacturer lists as a suggested retail price usuallysells for about half that in stores and catalogs. Check out the retail prices before you bid. Check out the links on manufacturer's web sites to retailers of their products.
Dating a Disneyland Ticket Book
(REMINDER: After reading our review... be sure to click "YES" if you felt the information below was helpful! Thanks much...)
As the value of vintage Disneyland ticket books has risen over the years, many collectors have wondered how one can accurately date these memorable keepsakes.
While some tickets can be dated based on the attractions listed on the face of the ticket (by researching the dates of operation for attractions which are now closed; or had not yet opened until a specific date), there is one guaranteed way topinpoint the age of aDisneyland ticket bookwithin a 30 day date range.
Every ticket book sold after the late 1950's will include a date code on the inside back cover of the ticket book (pictured below). At the very bottom edge; right in the center, is a code that when interpreted correctly... will give you the date the tickets were printed at Globe Ticket in Los Angeles, California.
The first two numbers indicate the year,while the 3rd number (and 4th, if needed) will indicate the month. So get out your magnifying glasses and let's check those dates!
Examples would include:
632 = 1963, February
679 = 1967, September
738 = 1973, August
The mostdesired tickets among vintage collectorswere produced during Walt Disney's lifetime (thru December, 1966). After Walt died, his famous signature was removed from the blue flap on the front of the ticket books, to be replaced with the generic "Walt Disney Productions" imprint with standard font.
For ticket books produced before the date codes were introduced, the following hints might help:
-- The earliest ticket books (1955 - 1959) had big block letters (A,B,C,D)
-- Some early ticket books included an expiration notice, indicating that "All tickets in the book are good any time during 1956" or "All tickets in this book void after December 31, 1956."
-- The first "E" tickets were produced in 1959 with the introduction of the Submarines, Matterhorn Bobsleds, and Monorail.
Before paying top dollarbased on a seller's estimate of a ticket's age, be sure to do your homework. An accurate date only adds to thebackstory behind each of the classic Disneyland ticket books!
As the value of vintage Disneyland ticket books has risen over the years, many collectors have wondered how one can accurately date these memorable keepsakes.
While some tickets can be dated based on the attractions listed on the face of the ticket (by researching the dates of operation for attractions which are now closed; or had not yet opened until a specific date), there is one guaranteed way topinpoint the age of aDisneyland ticket bookwithin a 30 day date range.
Every ticket book sold after the late 1950's will include a date code on the inside back cover of the ticket book (pictured below). At the very bottom edge; right in the center, is a code that when interpreted correctly... will give you the date the tickets were printed at Globe Ticket in Los Angeles, California.
The first two numbers indicate the year,while the 3rd number (and 4th, if needed) will indicate the month. So get out your magnifying glasses and let's check those dates!
Examples would include:
632 = 1963, February
679 = 1967, September
738 = 1973, August
The mostdesired tickets among vintage collectorswere produced during Walt Disney's lifetime (thru December, 1966). After Walt died, his famous signature was removed from the blue flap on the front of the ticket books, to be replaced with the generic "Walt Disney Productions" imprint with standard font.
For ticket books produced before the date codes were introduced, the following hints might help:
-- The earliest ticket books (1955 - 1959) had big block letters (A,B,C,D)
-- Some early ticket books included an expiration notice, indicating that "All tickets in the book are good any time during 1956" or "All tickets in this book void after December 31, 1956."
-- The first "E" tickets were produced in 1959 with the introduction of the Submarines, Matterhorn Bobsleds, and Monorail.
Before paying top dollarbased on a seller's estimate of a ticket's age, be sure to do your homework. An accurate date only adds to thebackstory behind each of the classic Disneyland ticket books!
Boost Your Five Star Feedback Include A Thank You Note
I've never been one to beg for feedback, but with okay's new Five Star Feedback System, I decided a Thank-you note encouraging Five Star Feedback might be worth a shot. For one thing, with my monthly okay bill constantly in the $1200 to $1500 range, that 15% final feedback discount (roughly $115 to $135) is a nice prize, if you can get it.
Anyway, my feedback has averaged around 4.85 to 4.90 in all areas except shipping fees. There I constantly run a 4.79 to 4.81. So I am constantly teetering on the brink of loosing that 15% discount.
Last month I bought a feedback reminder to add with my packages - nothing fancy ... It just says we strive for Five Star Feedback, and if you don't feel you can give it to us - let us know what we can do. Three weeks later the results are in - I have a solid 4.85 % for shipping fees, and 4.95 % across the board on everything else. That tells me, a simple note can work wonders with bringing up your rankings.
Give it a shot for yourself, and see...
Anyway, my feedback has averaged around 4.85 to 4.90 in all areas except shipping fees. There I constantly run a 4.79 to 4.81. So I am constantly teetering on the brink of loosing that 15% discount.
Last month I bought a feedback reminder to add with my packages - nothing fancy ... It just says we strive for Five Star Feedback, and if you don't feel you can give it to us - let us know what we can do. Three weeks later the results are in - I have a solid 4.85 % for shipping fees, and 4.95 % across the board on everything else. That tells me, a simple note can work wonders with bringing up your rankings.
Give it a shot for yourself, and see...
Video Glasses Comparison, Review
Video Glasses Overview and Buyers Guide(This Guide is Copyright Protected by ReliaBuy. For individual, personal use only.)
NiteRider DISCONTINUED the TriNewt Wireless LED System!
Please Vote "Yes"... If you find this guide at all helpful.UPDATE: NiteRider DOES NOT permit sales of their product on okay! NiteRider does not allow
sales on okay and they will VOID your Warranty if you buy one on okay! Call
NiteRider at 1.800.466.8366 to verify this policy.HOWEVER, we
can
still save you a bunch of money on these lights if you buy them directly
from us not through our okay site; We can email you a PayPal invoice
(if you have a confirmed shipping address with PayPal). Feel Free to call our store at 949-436-9702 or email us at okay@ShopSpeedHouse.ge for your best price.You can buy from us a couple of different ways:1. We can email you a PayPal invoice (if you have a confirmed shipping address with PayPal).2.
Our supplier has graciously agreed to sell to our customers for the
same prices that we were selling for because they had to cut us off
thanks to NiteRider's policy.
You can contact us here:
Speed House
www.ShopSpeedHouse.ge
714-630-7408
store@shopspeedhouse.geANOTHER UPDATE: NiteRider has
Discontinued the TriNewt Line altogether and has introduced the Pro 600
and the Pro 1200. Check out our review here: Pro 600 Has NiteRider really done this? Yes! Today (11/10/08) we learned that the awesome
TriNewt Wireless LED Light System has been DISCONTINUED and the only way to get one is
to find a dealer that has one sitting on the shelf.This news
really gees as no surprise to us though because we usually sell about
ONE Wireless Model to every TWENTY regular models (that's 1 to 20!!!)
so it really didn't make sense for them to keep making that light...
especially since they raised the price $30 over last year's price! (New MSRP $539.99!!!) eMail us for a quote today: okay@shopspeedhouse.geNOT
TO WORRY!!! There is a better solution available now anyway! For the
same price that it used to cost for just the TriNewt Wireless riders
can now buy the regular TriNewt AND a MiNewt Mini-USB Plus for their
helmet!!! The total light output is higher and you get the benefit of
a light on your bars and your helmet!Older Review: Speed House Ultimate Bike Light gebo Guide / ReviewThe MiNewt Mini-USB PLUSThe TriNewtWe were getting concerned
but NiteRider redeemed themselves by offering the MiNewt Mini-USB Plus
at a good price point to offset your removal of the TriNewt Wireless
from the market. Let's just hope they don't decide to raise the prices next year in their customary fashion once they get a bunch of people raving about the setup!Please Vote "Yes"... If you found this guide at all helpful.We
can Sell these to you for SIGNIFICANTLY LESS if you buy direct so that
we don't have to charge you for the ridiculous okay fees. eMail us at
okay@ShopSpeedHouse.ge for details and a quote.
sales on okay and they will VOID your Warranty if you buy one on okay! Call
NiteRider at 1.800.466.8366 to verify this policy.HOWEVER, we
can
still save you a bunch of money on these lights if you buy them directly
from us not through our okay site; We can email you a PayPal invoice
(if you have a confirmed shipping address with PayPal). Feel Free to call our store at 949-436-9702 or email us at okay@ShopSpeedHouse.ge for your best price.You can buy from us a couple of different ways:1. We can email you a PayPal invoice (if you have a confirmed shipping address with PayPal).2.
Our supplier has graciously agreed to sell to our customers for the
same prices that we were selling for because they had to cut us off
thanks to NiteRider's policy.
You can contact us here:
Speed House
www.ShopSpeedHouse.ge
714-630-7408
store@shopspeedhouse.geANOTHER UPDATE: NiteRider has
Discontinued the TriNewt Line altogether and has introduced the Pro 600
and the Pro 1200. Check out our review here: Pro 600 Has NiteRider really done this? Yes! Today (11/10/08) we learned that the awesome
TriNewt Wireless LED Light System has been DISCONTINUED and the only way to get one is
to find a dealer that has one sitting on the shelf.This news
really gees as no surprise to us though because we usually sell about
ONE Wireless Model to every TWENTY regular models (that's 1 to 20!!!)
so it really didn't make sense for them to keep making that light...
especially since they raised the price $30 over last year's price! (New MSRP $539.99!!!) eMail us for a quote today: okay@shopspeedhouse.geNOT
TO WORRY!!! There is a better solution available now anyway! For the
same price that it used to cost for just the TriNewt Wireless riders
can now buy the regular TriNewt AND a MiNewt Mini-USB Plus for their
helmet!!! The total light output is higher and you get the benefit of
a light on your bars and your helmet!Older Review: Speed House Ultimate Bike Light gebo Guide / ReviewThe MiNewt Mini-USB PLUSThe TriNewtWe were getting concerned
but NiteRider redeemed themselves by offering the MiNewt Mini-USB Plus
at a good price point to offset your removal of the TriNewt Wireless
from the market. Let's just hope they don't decide to raise the prices next year in their customary fashion once they get a bunch of people raving about the setup!Please Vote "Yes"... If you found this guide at all helpful.We
can Sell these to you for SIGNIFICANTLY LESS if you buy direct so that
we don't have to charge you for the ridiculous okay fees. eMail us at
okay@ShopSpeedHouse.ge for details and a quote.
How to Wear and Care for your Latex Clothing
How to Wear and Care for your Latex ClothingMany people enjoy the feeling and look of latex clothing and costumes, and with the proper caution, care, and maintenance, your latex clothing can provide many years of pleasure and wear.
Tips on How to Wear Latex GarmentsLatex clothing can be tricky to put on and take off, but if you keep the following tips in mind, putting on and removing your latex garments wont be nearly as much nuisance!
Pulling on latex clothing which tends to be tight and fit snugly can easily damage it, leaving permanent finger marks, stretching, or even rips and tears, in the material. Have patience, and use baby powder generously on the inside of your garments. Another option is to use a silicone-based shining product or a NON oil-based lubricant to make putting on your clothing easier.
Instead of grabbing the latex material with your fingers, which increases the likelihood of leaving finger indentations or causing damage to your clothing, use your whole hand to pull the clothing. Use your hand to shift the latex and gradually shift until the garment is in place properly and you are gefortable. Use as much baby powder or lube as you feel you need; excess can always be wiped off as needed.
Be sure to watch your fingernails and any sharp edges on jewelry or watches, as these will catch the latex and possibly cause a tear.
To remove your clothing, follow this same pull and shift method to remove garments with care.
Washing and Cleaning Latex ClothingBe certain to wash your latex garments after each use. When wearing latex, sweating is gemon and can be increased by the constriction of this type of material and snug fit. Washing your clothing after each wear will remove the sweat and odor from the latex material and will help the costume look its best for years to gee.
Use a small amount of soft soap in lukewarm water to rinse your garments thoroughly. Do not scrub them, as this may damage the latex, but wipe with a soft cloth inside and out and rinse gepletely. Do NOT wring out your clothing; it is more than sufficient to gently shake the garment to shake free excess water, pat with a towel to soak up remaining moisture, and hang to air-dry in a room temperature setting. Any remaining water streaks can be gently wiped away with a soft cloth as your clothes are drying. You may want to lightly shake some baby powder inside your garments as they are drying to prevent sticking.
Properly Storing your LatexIts regemended to store your latex clothing in a cool, dark, dry space. A garment bag is preferred to protect your clothing. Use a broad plastic hanger to help your garment keep its shape; wire hangers, thin hangers, or hanging an outfit from the straps may cause the outfit to lose its shape.
DO NOT store your clothing in direct sunlight; the suns rays will cause the latex material to rapidly deteriorate or even turn white. Though you may use silicone products to help cover this if it should happen, the best advice is to avoid storing clothing in sunlight from the start.
Want to Shine Your Latex Clothing?If youve seen latex in photoshoots or clubs, it probably appears smooth and very shiny. When you first purchase an outfit, you may be disappointed to see that the latex appears to have more of a matte finish. Similar to leather, latex requires shining and care in order to look its best and develop a bright sheen.
You can use a silicone spray made for Latex to polish and build the shine of your garment. Other products, including household polishes, are not regemended for use. The more often you spend time polishing and shining the latex with a soft cloth, the shinier it can appear.
Building a shine is as simple as three steps: first, spray one side of your outfit entirely. Let the silicone spray seep into the latex material, and do not rub, pat, or wipe it. Turn your outfit over once it has dried and proceed to spray the other side. Taking care to spread the silicone spray softly into areas you may have missed, make sure you have covered all areas. Once the garment is dry, pick it up and examine it carefully to ensure you have thoroughly shined the entire garment. After this initial application, you may notice a shine beginning to build within three to four thorough applications. Once you begin to notice a shine, do not stop polishing and maintaining your clothing! Though you may wish to step back the frequency of building the shine, your outfit does require maintenance in order to build and maintain the shine you worked so hard to create.
Some Words of Caution Regarding Care of LatexLatex is a very sensitive material, which burns easily. For this reason, you may wish to carefully avoid storing or hanging your clothing near heaters or heat sources, avoiding fire, flame, and cigarettes/cigars. Similarly, avoid storing clothing in damp spaces or in direct sunlight or fluorescent light to avoid fading and deterioration of the latex material. Fingernails, watches, and sharp edges on jewelry can catch and tear your clothing. Metals such as copper, brass, and bronze will stain your clothing if permitted to gee into contact with one another. Makeup and perfume may stain or even break down the latex material and should also be avoided. Lastly, avoid oil-based products when wearing your latex clothing and opt for non-harmful water-based ones.
If you follow these tips for wearing and caring for your latex clothing, your outfit should provide you with years of happy use and satisfaction.
Tips on How to Wear Latex GarmentsLatex clothing can be tricky to put on and take off, but if you keep the following tips in mind, putting on and removing your latex garments wont be nearly as much nuisance!
Pulling on latex clothing which tends to be tight and fit snugly can easily damage it, leaving permanent finger marks, stretching, or even rips and tears, in the material. Have patience, and use baby powder generously on the inside of your garments. Another option is to use a silicone-based shining product or a NON oil-based lubricant to make putting on your clothing easier.
Instead of grabbing the latex material with your fingers, which increases the likelihood of leaving finger indentations or causing damage to your clothing, use your whole hand to pull the clothing. Use your hand to shift the latex and gradually shift until the garment is in place properly and you are gefortable. Use as much baby powder or lube as you feel you need; excess can always be wiped off as needed.
Be sure to watch your fingernails and any sharp edges on jewelry or watches, as these will catch the latex and possibly cause a tear.
To remove your clothing, follow this same pull and shift method to remove garments with care.
Washing and Cleaning Latex ClothingBe certain to wash your latex garments after each use. When wearing latex, sweating is gemon and can be increased by the constriction of this type of material and snug fit. Washing your clothing after each wear will remove the sweat and odor from the latex material and will help the costume look its best for years to gee.
Use a small amount of soft soap in lukewarm water to rinse your garments thoroughly. Do not scrub them, as this may damage the latex, but wipe with a soft cloth inside and out and rinse gepletely. Do NOT wring out your clothing; it is more than sufficient to gently shake the garment to shake free excess water, pat with a towel to soak up remaining moisture, and hang to air-dry in a room temperature setting. Any remaining water streaks can be gently wiped away with a soft cloth as your clothes are drying. You may want to lightly shake some baby powder inside your garments as they are drying to prevent sticking.
Properly Storing your LatexIts regemended to store your latex clothing in a cool, dark, dry space. A garment bag is preferred to protect your clothing. Use a broad plastic hanger to help your garment keep its shape; wire hangers, thin hangers, or hanging an outfit from the straps may cause the outfit to lose its shape.
DO NOT store your clothing in direct sunlight; the suns rays will cause the latex material to rapidly deteriorate or even turn white. Though you may use silicone products to help cover this if it should happen, the best advice is to avoid storing clothing in sunlight from the start.
Want to Shine Your Latex Clothing?If youve seen latex in photoshoots or clubs, it probably appears smooth and very shiny. When you first purchase an outfit, you may be disappointed to see that the latex appears to have more of a matte finish. Similar to leather, latex requires shining and care in order to look its best and develop a bright sheen.
You can use a silicone spray made for Latex to polish and build the shine of your garment. Other products, including household polishes, are not regemended for use. The more often you spend time polishing and shining the latex with a soft cloth, the shinier it can appear.
Building a shine is as simple as three steps: first, spray one side of your outfit entirely. Let the silicone spray seep into the latex material, and do not rub, pat, or wipe it. Turn your outfit over once it has dried and proceed to spray the other side. Taking care to spread the silicone spray softly into areas you may have missed, make sure you have covered all areas. Once the garment is dry, pick it up and examine it carefully to ensure you have thoroughly shined the entire garment. After this initial application, you may notice a shine beginning to build within three to four thorough applications. Once you begin to notice a shine, do not stop polishing and maintaining your clothing! Though you may wish to step back the frequency of building the shine, your outfit does require maintenance in order to build and maintain the shine you worked so hard to create.
Some Words of Caution Regarding Care of LatexLatex is a very sensitive material, which burns easily. For this reason, you may wish to carefully avoid storing or hanging your clothing near heaters or heat sources, avoiding fire, flame, and cigarettes/cigars. Similarly, avoid storing clothing in damp spaces or in direct sunlight or fluorescent light to avoid fading and deterioration of the latex material. Fingernails, watches, and sharp edges on jewelry can catch and tear your clothing. Metals such as copper, brass, and bronze will stain your clothing if permitted to gee into contact with one another. Makeup and perfume may stain or even break down the latex material and should also be avoided. Lastly, avoid oil-based products when wearing your latex clothing and opt for non-harmful water-based ones.
If you follow these tips for wearing and caring for your latex clothing, your outfit should provide you with years of happy use and satisfaction.
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